This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
This fun, short route begins near Thindependence and Pear Buttress and ascends flawless rock. The start is somewhat hard to find. Walk to the Book, and go left just before the rock where the trail branches. Hike up around a small pinnacle and head back right toward the massive, overhanging Howling at the Wind Dihedral. Then, scramble down a short gully (between the pinnacle and the main rock)that cliffs out at a low-angle slab. The route begins just right of the arete or prow formed by the extension of the Howling Dihedral's right wall. It is just [left] of Stretch Marks and Thindependence. One can also scramble up from the start to Pear Buttress area routes; follow your nose.
The route follows a thin corner just right of the prow. The crux, 30 feet up, is protected by shallow RP-sized placements--if these fail, you'd deck. The pitch remains interesting and about 5.8; climb up and pass through a short slot. Just above the slot one can prepare a rappel west from a horn (50 meter rope). Other options: continue straight up into P2 of Pear Buttress (possibly finding fixed rappel anchors atop the route Toot after about 30 feet); or, ten feet above the slot, one can traverse right down a sloping ramp to the second pitches of Loose Ends and Visual Aids.
Protection
If you don't have rps or an equivalent, consider this X-rated. A light standard rack up to a #2 friend should otherwise suffice.
I pity the 5.9 leader who wanders up this thing. The crux is hard and steep and offers only RPs. It is a great short pitch, but be ready for the techy stuff.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now Feb 25, 2002
You know, the first time I climbed this I think must have been in a zone. The rps looked great, i saw a jug in a few moves and I didn't even hesitate.
I came back later and climbed it, and screwed around for about 5-10 minutes because i didn't like the look of the rps or the moves, and then my foot slipped once while I hesitated in the midst of the delicate moves, with fingers in shallow locks. Scary! I know a guy who regularly solos 5.8s and 5.9s at Lumpy, and he says it took him three years to get the nerve to try this and he considers it 5.10 R (although I don't honestly think it's THAT hard).
I followed Charles on this one day and thought it was pretty spicy. 9+ with a dab of habanero sauce. The RP(s) may be good, but if you're not a 5.10 leader and skilled w/ placing them, it could be dangerous.
Thinstone follows the thin crack, but does it finish off with the crack in the diherdral or the slab crack? I did place some good pro in the dihedral crack, but didn't know the official route. I'm stupid like that. Anyone know?
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 4, 2008 rating: 5.9
A great climb with better gear and moves than it appears. Witha 70M rope you can get to the pin and stopper belay on Pear Buttress and then rap or lower (with some caution), to a high point on the ground to climber's left.
The Book
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