White Whale 

We started early and had the climb to ourselves. The climb had good protection and would make a great starter trad lead. I set the second belay on a dirty, vegetated ledge. We finished up and right from here with a short face section. This section had some long reaches but bomber holds.

Bomber! Great route. Great pro. Definitely deserves three stars. Lots of other great multi-pitch moderates in the area, too.

I'd say that this is one of my favorite routes of its grade that I've done anywhere... I 2nd, 3rd, 4th or whatever, the 3-star rating!

I felt this was a really nice and comfortable 5.7.

Not necesarily comparable to other Lumpy Ridge 5.7. Perhaps it was the relatively low angle or the readily available amount of pro.

Great fun climb.

WT

Great fun. 2nd pitch is a full rope length if you use a 50 meter rope. Be sure to save some hand/fist pro for the 2nd belay in the small nook left of the roof. The entire route is very well protected. A definite must do.

Great 4th of July climb if you are the first one on the route. We pulled into the parking lot at 5:30 am (first car). By the time we came off the route, the entire rock was filled with climbers. On this super hot day, we were in the shade all morning. This route is fabulous. I am trying to do more leads without first following someone. This is the perfect route to just jump on. It protects well (make sure you are comfortable with hanging belays - one is needed at the top of P2). P1 gives you ample opportunity to use your hexes if you carry them. The travers ng under the little roof at the top of P1 tests your patience...it isn't hard....it just requires you to do a little undercling. As you come around the left edge the crack to grab is quite thin....trust the feet as they stick. P2 has a super fun crack to climb. You can foot jam it all the way or use the features on each side. It does angle up and left to the big roof. This climb is one I will do again and again.

Great climb, deserves every star. Don't hesitate to do this climb, it's worth the hike.

A much more moderate route it definitely put a smile on my face. Until the walk off in my rock shoes. All in all unless you ware your shoes like sunday slippers. I recommend bringin a pair to hike down with. Enjoy... for the alpine bunch this would be a fun route to do with mountaineering boots for practice. Peace, Love, and Chicken Grease !!!

The crack on the 2nd pitch is about as good as it gets! The 3rd pitch is a little run out.

The second pitch is as good a lead as you will find at this grade. Keeps going and going, tons of fun. However, imho, this climb is much easier than its neighboring climb, Haitus which is also rated 5.7. Don't be fooled.

Good moves at the crux, slabby and exciting, I hardly had to jam the crack. Good route.

My first time at Lumpy and my first bonafide 5.7 trad lead. Blindly following the crack/seam at the upper end of P2, I found myself under the large roof, on wet rock, 20' above my last (marginal) gear, and desperately wanting something better. If you head left a little earlier up a face, you get to a nice set of shallow cracks which take gear. From there, you can extend P2 around to the left of the large roof into a chimney where it's a little easier to set a belay. The moves out of this chimney (beginning of P3) were a little spicy and committing, but over quickly.

Great route and a real confidence-builder for my trad leading skills.

I think the only real 5.7 part of this climb is the thin, shallow corner 20 feet below the first belay tree. The rest is 5.6, IMO, including the second pitch, hence it feeling easier than its neighbor, Hiatus which is significantly harder and more sustatined at 5.7+.

This is a great route, however, please heed the warning to avoid the water groove on the right near the top of the third pitch. I did not, and paid the price by taking a ~40' whipper (fortunately, my gear and belayer held). I made the mistake of not checking the guidebook before hand. That water groove IMHO is more like polished 5.9+ R/X. Otherwise...very cool and well protected route...I'll be back in August to do it ON ROUTE! :)

FWIW, I found Tricams to be very useful on this route. I would not recommend this for new 5.7 leaders, the climbing is easy but you have a couple places with a decent run that may spook fledgling leaders at the grade. IMHO.

Fun route! It is possible to do this route in 2 pitches if you go past the tree at the usual P1 belay and keep running to the crack systems at the diagonal about 1/2 way from the tree up to the roof. If I recall correctly the belay took a hand size cam upside down under a flake (#1 or #2 Camalot) and a couple of nuts. We did this with a 60 meter rope, and there was snow on the ground so our starting point was maybe 3 or 4 meters above the ground proper. 1 belay instead of 2 = faster and more fun!! I did this as a 5.10+ trad climber on a 5.7 route with lots of hanging belays under my belt. If you're climbing close to your limit, stick with the standard belays.

Excellent! I would highly recommend carrying a set of DMM double tapered nuts (are these called Wallnuts?). In any event, they are suitable nuts for flared cracks, and there are plenty of locations on this climb where they protected MUCH better than my standard set of Metolius nuts.

We did all four pitches on this, our first ever at Lumpy. Awesome route! P1 is mostly easy with the toughest move at the flake below the belay tree. Nice finger crack there. P2 is totally sweet with a nice hand crack most of the way. Lots of places for nuts and cams. Slightly runout below the alcove at the end of the pitch. There is a fixed nut up there which I clipped. P3 is also fun but much more run out. You can walk off from the top of P2 if you don't want to do P3. P4 is also optional and surprised us all. It's an interesting off-width that narrows and steepens. After the crux it's easy until a roof move, and then 4th class to the top. I think most people probably skip P4.

Great route. Can be done in two pitches.

Fun route. I must have lead the second pitch differently as it seemed to be more run out and balancy, putting me about 15' above gear (or at least it seemed that way). I don't remember a classic crack, just slabby moves. The pro didn't seem to be as good either, and I was glad to get to the fixed nut and underclings at the roof right before the 2nd belay. Watch out for parties behind you on Hiatus as they'll climb right through your 2nd pitch belay gully.

Left gear at the top of pitch 2 for retreat during a lightning storm today. If anyone climbs this and would be gracious enough to return the slings, carabiners, and stopper I used please PM me. I'd really appreciate it!

By the way, fantastic climb! Don't miss it!