This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
A one-pitch route that may be used to start Femp or J-Crack. This old-school climb is the business for 5.10-solid leaders at the grade should jump on it! Begin right of J-Crack (but before Femp) below a huge, round crystalline hole in the cliff, which harbors a large tree. Clamber up into the hole and pull crystals up into a left-facing corner. Ascend that (the crux) via sustained laybacking, lacking any noticable stances for placing gear. Belay on a ledge. It is possible to traverse right from here and downclimb the first pitch of Femp or rappel off of a dubious tree, but this is annoying and somewhat scary--best to continue up one of the fine routes above.
Protection
requires mainly very small gear, and a 3.5 friend fits the flare near the top
The Gillett guide amazingly calls this 10a. Pretty hard for the grade... it's a different type of climb but we thought it was harder than Thindependence (which is called 10c or d depending on where you look). It's definitely worth doing if you'd like something a little more challenging to start Femp or J-Crack.
The Book
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