This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Description
This is a great lieback, hand, finger, crack on a boulder southeast of the descent from the Book. After descending the third class rock sections of the Book, walk 50 yards south east to find a 40 foot boulder with a right slanting bolted flaring crack on its west side.
This route can be toproped clipping the bolts for directionals. The crux occurs right off the ground with hard 5.12 liebacking to gain the flared crack. The crack itself is also solid 5.12 with sequential thin hand jams and a pumpy 5.11 finish. A great route. Tape up!
Protection
Ironically this is a bolted crack; at Lumpy Ridge no less. Some day this may be led on natural pro, it is certainly possible for all except the first twenty feet.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now Aug 11, 2001
...I'm not sure who bolted it, but that's total....at an area like Lumpy--all except the first 10-15 feet would take great natural gear. There goes another great potential gear test-piece...
I have to agree that this route should not have been bolted. Some hard trad lines just need to be left for future hard climbers to send...not bolted just because its convenient...
I'm all in favor of removing all but the first bolt as there are great crack placements for the rest of this very short but quality pitch. I wouldn't do it without a HUGE community consensus, but this one seems like a relatively easy decision.
The Book
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