This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Errett trying to figure this one out.
Description
This route is the standard finish to climbs on the right side of the Book, (though not as good as the harder finishes to its left), and could be accessed from climbs such as Osiris and George's Tree by traversing right along Fang Ledge. I thought it would be good to add it because most of the other routes for this rock make reference to it. The Book is 500-600 feet high and has a prominent lower-angled section about 2/3 of the way up across much of its width. Near the right edge of the book, this easy slab terminates beneath a steep headwall, with a small cave at its right. Down and right from the cave is a prominent roof band, and much of the rock above it has a reddish tint. The cave is the easiest way off for most climbs on the right side of the Book. It offers two major 5.7-5.8ish variations. From just below it, one can boulder out the roof, which is much easier than it looks (involving slyness and contortions). There may be a fixed pin and other decent gear can be had; finish up a groove. A more straightforward finish lies just to the right (definitely the recommended one if speed is an issue at all, otherwise over the roof is quite fun). Hand traverse around an overhang utilizing a horizontal crack with good medium-small friend placements, and finish straight up easier rock. Watch rope drag on either exit. The right end of the hand traverse can also be reached directly by climbing a thin 5.9 crack with tricky placements. Descend by downclimbing a short way, then follow a ledge east, and pick up a water groove which leads to a series of slabs, chimneys, and grooves. One can also rappel from a tree at the beginning of the ledge to reach this point (recommended in wet or dark). Bear south east (easier but longer) or south west (4th class, with a few cairns--be sure to cut back east partway down or you'll get cliffed). Walk west back to the base of your route.
Protection
A very short pitch--you'll need a few nuts and Friends for the easier variations (nothing big), and be sure to bring some very small nuts and TCUs if doing the 5.9.
I have to agree with the above comment, don't let looks deceive you on this. It looks really scary, but if you don't try it, you will kick yourself in the ass later when you do.
As of 6.23.2002, there was a fairly new-looking pin in the roof of the cave. There is also a crack that takes a #1 Camalot well. The climbing looks way harder than 5.7, but you can get some good stems, and it all works out. Try not to partially wrap the rope around yourself like I did when moving out towards the edge of the roof.
This website is a terrific source of information. Unfortunately, I read about The Cave Exit AFTER we climbed Pear Buttress. Here is an alternative escape if you'd like a change of pace and if the weather is still holding for you. I don't think it's worth it, but it will get you to the top.
Instead of heading R all the way up the 5.4 ramp to the cave, we were intimidated by what looked like arduous climbing, so we headed left, up a 5.5 ramp, which I believe leads to Fang Ledge. From there, we went up the Midway Dihedral (#52 in Gillett's book), straight up to old slings on a dicey flake backed up by an old bolt. Fortunately, this can be backed up by a #1 Camalot and a stopper. The Midway Dihedral is short, fun, and based on the amount of vegetation, not often climbed (5.8+). It takes small pro.
Instead of heading straight up Willie's Way (which we didn't know, but looked hard) we did the Bloody Traverse to the left, marked by assorted blood spots in numerous cracks. This is 5.8ish, bloody, and protects well. Perhaps 50 feet. You top out in the first big crack/dihedral which I believe is the last pitch of George's Tree (5.7), which is maybe 60 feet and fun.
Figuring out the Cave exit is a Lumpy rite of passage. Be sure to bring along your sense of humor, scramble up into the thing, and do your twirls. Then make a mental note to do the Hurley Traverse next time!
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Jun 12, 2005 rating: 5.7+
Was in this cave yesterday and 7+ is about right. Small pro galore on the upper left side before a solid looking piton can be clipped. Good flake out on the right wall and an undercling up in the right ceiling above it was the love we were looking for. Then good ledge on upper left and bomber jug at the end of the upper right corner make this straight forward but awkward. Upon first inspection, looks harder than it really is...but fun!
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Jun 28, 2005 rating: 5.7+
Wow! That's fun! Nice epilogue to "Loose Ends" today.As of 6/05, the aforementioned pin is still in place, and don't take the integrity of the big flake on the left for granted.
I did the cave exit last Saturday and somehow made this way, way harder than 5.7. There is a jam in the roof that is so good you can literally hang off of it as I did. I sewed this up with a red Alien in the ledge under the pin, then clipped the good-looking pin then put an orange Alien into the roof (I was a little nervous).
FYI, if you are tall this is very hard, the roof of Fat City is easy compared to these, had to aid after 3 falls, 5.7+ a joke, my partner felt the same, WAS NO FUN, FYI climbed Fat City, and Cheapdate, Outlander, no falls, , The Pear is a great, but this exit is no way to end a great climb.
I'll refute that. As someone who is 6'6" and needed 5 tries on Fat City the cave is dead easy. It's just not obvious. If you do it right it's completely secure. Every time I do it the move gets more fun. Half the enjoyment is watching people struggle on this the first time they try it.
The Book
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