This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Near the 3rd bolt.
Description
This route ascends the face just right of the Batrachian Dihedral.
Begin on easy rock (Root of All Evil) just down and right from the dihedral. Climb into a tricky 5.8 crack, continue to a roof and turn that (5.9, [new] bolt). Belay above at a stance in a crack.
Then, for Sibling Rivalry, go left and follow 4...bolts up to a two bolt anchor. [100ft.] Rappel 160 ft to the ground, over the edge of the Batrachian Dihedral, or traverse right into the continuous crack leading up from the first pitch (which goes at 5.8). If doing that, traverse right at its top to join Good Timing and find the walk-off.
Nice climbing with the hardest move well protected and at the start. Above it's 7 or 8. You can climb most of the way right on the arete or wander a bit right. There are 4 bolts plus the anchors. The anchor bolts have slings and rings. Bring a leaver sling just in case.
I am sooo bad at leading slabs that I did a very strange thing yesterday: I simultaneously climbed the Sibling Rivalry slab and the P2 crack of Root of All Evil. We happened to be climbing on double ropes. I climbed 10' off the belay to put a piece in the crack for the right rope. Downclimbed and traversed left to the first bolt and clipped the left rope. Climbed past that, and it looked real far to the next bolt. So I traversed right to the piece in the crack, climbed about about 10' to place another piece, climbed down and back left to the slab. Up to the second bolt which is a somewhat rusty 1/4" button head. Back to the crack, up, place a piece, down, back to the slab. Same thing at the next bolt, which is also a buttonhead. Finally, at the last bolt, a new 3/8", I "ran for the top." Those last few moves, although a little steep, are on big, positive hand holds, and I was (finally) happy.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado May 13, 2005
From a clucker, don't fear P1 of Root of All Evil like I did. It is not runout (L 5.8 var) & the roof does not feel 9+. Probably P1 of RoAL will feel easier than P2 of SR. Probably wisest to bring 2 ropes to rap.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 14, 2005 rating: 5.9
A fun slab climb. I found the move past the first bolt to be solid 5.9 to 5.9+. After that the climbing got easier, but the long runouts between bolts kept my attention.
The anchor is two bolts with many slings and three rings; bring some webbing and a knife and be prepared to replace one of the slings if you go up there.
We rappelled diagonally over to the tree atop Sweet Sabrina. I replaced a sling and added a quick-link to this rap anchor. From here, a 100' rappel took us to the ground.
This is a reasonable descent if you only have one rope; make sure it's a 60m.
Great route worth doing for the exposure and to get into the Pear slabs!! Although a bit runout between bolts (ahem, excuse me, rusty buttonheads), I never felt there was a move harder than 5.8. But take that with a grain of salt since I am basing my grade recommendation on other slabs I've climbed in Vedauwoo and not necessarily at Lumpy.
Exciting alternative to second pitch of RAE, solid 9, some serious runouts between bolts. You're looking at a 30 - 40 footer if you sketch off near a clip, so it's pretty balsy for the grade.
The alternative for getting off as described above (by Ron) with one 60M rope is to rap down to the tree above the roof of Sweet Sabrina. There are two good slings, two rap rings and a quick link here (as of today), so do a second rap to the ground - it works well.
Nice slab climbing past old bolts. It's probably best not to test any of them. The approach pitch (p1 of Root of All Evil) was fun but didn't feel 9+. At least it had a modern bolt at its crux.
The Pear
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