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Climbers on the second pitch of La Chaim.
Description
This route is on the left side of the Pear, and features an excellent thin finger crack on the second pitch. It starts about 150 feet left of the Batrachian Dihedral. P1-Climb up an easy right-facing corner formed by a smaller rock which abuts the Pear. From a tree, go up left of a dike, past a small tree (sling for protection), and up an unprotected slab to belay on a small ledge (5.7, 150 ft.) P2-find the finger crack slightly up and right of the belay (not to be confused with a dihedral on the right), and follow it all the way to the walk-off ledge (5.7). Scramble off or continue on Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe.
[La Chaim means "To life!" in Hebrew]
Protection
Bring small stoppers and a few RPs [plus a light standard rack].
I though the hardest move was a mantle/slab move (more mentally challenging than technical) at the end of the first pitch with about twenty-five feet of run-out below you. Serious fall potential on this one. The finger crack on the second pitch is excellent.
I actually protected the second pitch without using a single RP or tiny stopper. Let's see - red TCU, red & yellow Alien, .75 Camalot, yellow 2 Camalot... and #00 flex Friend, with a couple of good and relatively large stopper placements.
[This] is a nice route! We followed Rossiter's topo, which tells you to follow a white dike on p1. This is a good way to find this route although I zig-zagged along the dike trying to find pro and the easiest line. I ended up going 6' right of the small tree, there is a nice flake below and right of this tree that can be used for pro (although the flake may be expanding). On the second pitch, we started up and right, then moved back left to find the good cracks. We had to switch cracks twice as one petered out to find good pro. This climb would definitely be 3 stars if it was longer.
Heck, I might give this route 3 stars "as is". Also, we did not place any RPs on the route. Stoppers and cams are what you need, the biggest thing we used was about #2 Camalot sized.
By Steve Marr From: North Pole/Fairbanks, AK Jul 5, 2003
It's possible to climb La Chaim in a single pitch with some moderate scrambling. We climbing up to the ledge with the tree and belayed from there. From the ledge, climb straight up, clipping the first three bolts on Salud (fun climbing over the small overhand). At the third bolt, break right, climb through some broken looking rock (solid), and aim for the finger crack. Follow the crack to the ledge and walk off. The crack is a lot of fun and well worth doing.
A fun combination links up any first pitch of Enema Syringe with the second pitch of La Chaim. Concoct your first pitch and belay at the foot of the dihedral as usual. Then step wildly around left - it looks like it's going to get hard, but always sneaks you a bucket just in time - and angle up and left to ease into the pretty crack that's the second pitch of La Chaim. Enjoy.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 27, 2006
Towards the top of the finger crack, you can jump over to the left to an even larger crack.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Apr 21, 2007 rating: 5.7 R
Each pitch is 35m, so you can combine both with a 70M. This climb has some fun runout climbing on P1 and a sweet finger crack on P2.
The Pear
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