An interesting climb on the Lower Owls, with a very short approach. Good for those who enjoy (or want to get some mileage on) wide cracks and chimneys, but at a moderate grade. The mitten is a large, leaning block midway up the right side of the Lower Owls. Take the approach trail to the Lower Twin Owls trail. The route starts a little uphill from the lowest point of the cliff.
P1-3 possibilities: a) take a blackened inset, with a finger crack, which leads to a short squeeze chimney, and continue more easily to a ledge below a wide crack (5.9); b) take a hand crack just left, and continue up an easy groove to the same belay (5.7); c) start further left in the easy groove.
P2-climb the wide crack, go up the right side of the mitten, and tunnel through the roof at its top; belay just above (5.8).
P3-walk over right, then climb a square cut, right-leaning chimney with good hand-sized protection. Turn the [weird] roof at its top, and belay beneath Twin Owls (5.7).
Climb a route on that rock, or descend right and scramble around to the base.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 11, 2007
P2 is quite fun. For cluckers like me, a #4.5 Camalot & 2 #4 Camalots (old style) are nice. Near the top of P2, there is a rope pinching crack. A red Alien above it on the right can help keep the rope out of the trouble. Addendum: wires, singles to #0.75 + doubles #1 to #4 Camalot + #4.5 Camalot for cluckers.
In my opinion, this is a great climb - all the pitches are fun, the climbing is interesting and varied. The chimney on the last pitch is amazing. We did the 7 variation on the first pitch and enjoyed it.
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