Roger Linfield on the third pitch, 5.8+ variation.
Description
A very strange moderate route (with an excellent 5.8+ crack variation) on the Lower Twin Owls, which is the large buttress directly below Twin Owls, and essentially connected to them. The route can be identified from the parking lot by some steep looking grooves, left of a huge corner, which reach up to the center of the Twin Owls. Take the marked approach trail which leaves the Gem Lake trail after about 50 ft. When it dies, bushwack up the hill somewhat rightward to get in an alcove at the base of the (now less-steep looking) grooves, with the large wall of the corner looming to the right.
P1-pick a groove fairly close to the corner, and use clever route finding to attain a perch in the corner about 100 ft. up (insecure, Lumpy-style 5.6).
P2- more of the same, to a ledge just below the top. Belay here, or climb the corner (5.6), a crack just left (5.7), or a beautiful hand crack left of that (5.8, recommended).
Descend by scrambling east along the base of Twin Owls, to pick up the eastern approach trail, or continue up a route above. If taking the easiest variation, the route is exactly 200 feet long.
If you need to get back to the base of the climb, it is slightly quicker to scramble down around the eastern side of the Lower Owls, than go all the way to the eastern approach trail.
[Definitely] do the 5.8 variation on pitch 3, [it's] very well protected, and on great rock! The first pitch seemed longer than it looked, and there is a few ways you could go, but everything seemed positive...
My first 5.6 lead on Lumpy Ridge, and at the top I, had a smile a mile wide. Finishing in the 5.6 corner on the last pitch is still mighty fine, steep climbing and a worthwhile finish. The 5.8 finish, as I've discovered on subsequent trips, offers terrific crack climbing as well, but at a considerably stiffer standard than anything below it.
A unique route that is probably a little spicier than it looks from the base. Be prepared for a bit of runout at the bottom and mischeivous cracks that lure you into them only to discover it was better on the face in the first place. Led the 5.7 finish and it was great. Good position and solid jams. By the way it is easy to combine the first two pitches into one with a 60 meter rope. All parties today were using that option.
A great climb. The first part is definitely insecure and weird. With a 60 m rope you can do most of this in one long pitch, ending at a comfortable ledge just below the 3 exit cracks. We did the 8 finish and it was stellar.
Kind of a tricky approach depending what side you come up from! Stellar climb kinda tricky in spots, but all the pro was great! I belayed of the tiny ledge almost a full 60m up! There's only about 15+ feet from there but figured it was a good place to take in the view! 2 thumbs up!
I climbed outside of the dihedral and found it to be challenging, but just stoked to see the Owls open this time of year. These easy climbs are going to see a lot of traffic this year due to so much rain, but enjoy.
After completing the climb in two pitches with the 5.8, we top-roped the upper options. I felt the left side crack was tougher than anything on Melvin's Wheel, unless you stem which made it much easier (5.8). Using the crack exclusively felt like 5.9. The 5.7 option had one move at that grade and the 5.6 was just fun.
A quick(er) way back to the base is to rap off the top of Conads. If you are not familiar with where the top of Conads is, then it may be tough to find. Essentially you want to get on the west side of the little ridge you topped out on (cross over to the climbers left). You will see a steep ramp with a gaping, flaring crack running away from you (with your back is to the owls). This crack should remind you of the first pitch of Organ Pipes, but less steep. Head down that crack and you will find a nest of slings after about 50 feet. You will likely want a belay in getting to the anchors, though. Easy scrambling but there is a lot of air under you. Also, the rap from Conads is exactly 30 meters, so do not try it with a 50m rope and use some knots.
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