This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Jaclyn, 8, going all out.
Description
A fierce-looking, obvious wide crack which yields to a plethora of hidden edges and other aids. Can be top-roped from either summit, though the south is better for beginners.
Protection
If leading, rack to a # 4 Camalot, though you could get by without it. If top-roping, it might be nice to place a a larger cam high in the crack as a directional.
While I wouldn't drive all the way up there just to do this (and fight the parking, etc), it isn't a bad route. As mentioned, there are lots of hidden features inside the crack, and it protects with normal gear. I don't remember doing much of any actual offwidth technique, but it has been a while since I have done this route.
Ouch! I did this route just a few days ago and still can't get it out of my head. I climbed the route on lead and fought it way too much. There wasn't a lot of offwidth technique that worked on the crack. I still have scratches on my back from reaching deep into the crack only to realize that there was a hidden hold just inside.
IMO, this route is rather hairy for a 5.6. As the name implies, near the top, if you slot your knee, you may never get it out again!
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 23, 2005
For yrs I'd wanna do this route. Steve wanted to do the 11a & 11c on the crag my 1st visit. Multiple others blew it off as "not worth it," but, it's fun & worth the effort. Even climbable in a bit of blowing snow. Might even be nicer that way cuz you're all bundled up so skimpy clothing might suck. 6 cams, 0.75 to #4 Camalot sized plus a red Alien worked. Tape is nice. Go L at top. Classic ego re-orienter. Nice combo with Tree Crack. Anyone left that bone there?
If you're small like me, 5'3", offwidth technique will come into use. I climbed it in my sneakers and got fully worked. Definitely a work out for me making me want to throw up at the top. I can Cruz most low 10's (except the sand bags like Rosy Crucifixion) on trad, even in Lumpy, and this one works me every time. Then, my buddy, a larger guy, flew up the thing with out even reaching deep or using much off width technique. A fun climb and I certainly agree with Leo, a true ego check.