Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Checkerboard Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
Checkerboard Crack 
Crystal Catch 
Non-Alignment 
Rainy Day Woman 
Ziggie's Brother Hank 
Ziggie's Day Out 

Ziggie's Brother Hank 

5.10

   

FA: Anderson, Smedley, Larson, c. 1990
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Views: 180 page views

Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.

Approaching the first bolt. From the ground it loo...


Description 

A good face climb (protected primarily by bolts) in a somewhat questionable position, as it crosses the classic crack line of Ziggie's Day Out. Start just above the large block on the left side of Checkerboard Rock. Climb up to a bolt, using a short crack for pro, clip it and make 5.10 moves to attain the zig-zag crack of Ziggie's Day Out. Place a tcu, and continue up a steep wall past more bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor. Many will be comfortable without any gear other than QDs.


Protection 

Bring a few small stoppers and TCUs, otherwise about 7 or 8 QD



Add Photo Photos of Ziggie's Brother Hank
High stepping at the first bolt. There are several positive holds at the start of this crux section.

High stepping at the first bolt. There are several...

Getting a bit runout on the red rope but a bit closer ("runin") to the gear on the blue rope. It doesn't look too bad in this photo, but from below it looks like you might hit the ground and some nasty blocks.

Getting a bit runout on the red rope but a bit clo...

Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. You could, obviously, skip the runout first crux and start on these diagonal cracks. The route continues up and left from here into the shadows past two more bolts. The climbing is a bit harder, but only a bit runout. You'll want a red Camalot or thereabouts for after you turn the arete after the last bolt. Ziggie's Day Out (10d ***) follows these diagonal cracks out right to its crux at the bulge.

Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. Y...


Add Comment Comments on Ziggie's Brother Hank
Show which comments —
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson AZ
Jan 1, 2001

I've probably overestimated the amount of QDs needed for this climb...there are only 3 or 4 bolts.

By S. Kimball
Jun 1, 2003

Charles, you underestimated the amount of quickdraws...3 bolts, the 1st is rusted and cratered out gives litte confidence for the runout 5.10 above. Definitely R rated. Gear on Ziggie's and before and after the bolts eems mandatory? Definitely "old school" .

By david goldstein
Sep 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b

I agree with SK that most people are not going to be particularly happy with the rusty bolts on this climb, especially the critical first which protects a 15' runout and whose guts are exposed, nor are they going to feel overprotected even with supplemental gear.

By Sasha
From: Denver, CO
May 20, 2006

Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor to Ziggie's, but you better be in slab shape.