This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
John Courtney low down on P1.
Description
Like its neighbor, Ziggie's Day Out, this climb requires great skill in placing protection, and it seems like you need TCUs for most of it. Nut placements can be had, but are very tricky. The left side of Checkerboard Rock is broken by a ledge 2/3 of the way up. Two prominent parallel cracks reach it; the left one (which continues beyond the ledge) is Checkerboard Crack. To reach it, lieback a shallow dihedral just right of a large block (thin 5.9-or, traverse in from above the block). Make some face moves to gain the flared crack, and climb it to the ledge (sustained 5.9/5.10). Pitch 2 is short and continues up the crack to the top.
This route can be done in one pitch. At exactly 60 meters a nice ledge and a bomber diagonal crack appears from which you can belay. From here you can scramble to the summit. Classic Lumpy flared crack.
Agree with the comment on protection. Had to do considerable back cleaning to get the right gear up to the crux (it's the same size you want to place on the first half of P1). A double set of green, blue and black Aliens or Metolius tri-cams in that range would have made life a lot simpler for my partner and I Saturday.
Climbed this 10 yrs ago when I was a [rookie] 5.10 leader and somehow stuck it in a terrified state. Went back to climb it yesterday and pulled two offset nuts out of the flared crux crack when I fell. First time I have ever pulled gear falling and I have fallen on my pro many of time. So to make a long story short have your Lumpy head on, this crack is VERY flaring, and for those of you who have been on this before and wondered, the answer is yes the slab below does hurt when you hit it.
This route does have a bit of tricky gear. An offset Alien (black/blue) works really well near the crux. Not a good beginner .10 by any means. Good route with some great hand jams even in the flare if you really fish around for them. Cheers...
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 23, 2006 rating: 5.10c
I went up this thing expecting a crack; when I name routes I either play off of existing route or crag names and also try to be descriptive of the route. Checkerboard Crack is a misleading name. Since Checkerboard Flare and Checkerboard Seam-In-Leaning-Corner were not taken, I don't know why the route was called Checkerboard Crack (snicker). Anyway, the climb was fun, but I could have used more medium nuts, which would have protected me a little more.
Climbed this route yesterday, and agree pro is tricky, and did not run the pitches together. My buddy whipped at the crux for a 20 foot whipper and pulled out a crappy Wild Country zero cam at the crux. He was pretty shaky when he arrived at the crux. His piece below, a beautiful #9 BD stopper held placed in the crack below and to the right. His fall was nice and he didn't get hurt/injured at all, as he flew past me belaying from the sling/horn. We both agreed that he could have gotten at better piece at the crux, probably a small stopper. My stopper got stuck that he fell onto, I probably could have gotten it out if I had something to hammer my nut tool with. Not the best route for 2 budding 10 leaders, but fun anyhow!
Checkerboard Rock
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