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On the fun rightward traverse to the crux. This wa...
Description
A fantastic and unusual crack climb that is found on Checkerboard Rock, the small, 200 foot high buttress directly below Batman Rock. The thin crack remains continuous for a full pitch while wildly zigging and zagging across a steep slab. Do not attempt this climb unless you are skilled at making very finicky and creative placements with small wires! Find the crack on the far west side of the rock. It heads diagonally up right and then gets horizontal (5.9), heads straight up and fades considerably (crux), then slashes back left presenting a thin and scary 5.10 finale. From the belay ledge, traverse down and left to the bolt anchor of Ziggie's Brother Hank, or continue to the top in a 5.9 hand crack.
Protection
Bring RPs and other small pieces, up to a #3 Friend.
In the Gillett guide this is the only route on Checkerboard with three stars. I thought Ziggie's was good, but think Checkerboard Crack and Rainy Day Woman are better and more interesting.
The crux of Ziggie's is short and top roped. The crux for me was not the moves but rather stopping in the middle of the moves to place 2 brass nuts and then downclimbing. After getting the good holds above the bulge you can place another brass nut to protect the final moves over the bulge. A very good #2 Friend/0.75 Camalot helps you relax at the stance above the crux. Insecure moves with decent gear lead to the top of the crack. Marginal tiny brass protect the last few moves. I moved left about 6 feet onto the steep slab to a flake. Finishing up the no-pro crack looked dirty and hard, and climbing right of the crack looked impossible. Is moving left correct ?
The initial traverese right on the undercling flakes is fun with with good gear and one hard move (9 or 9+).
Gear: 2+ sets of brass nuts. I used Astros and HB offsets. Single set bigger nuts to maybe 1/2". 2 sets micro cams to 1", singles to #2 Friend. Long runners.
Question: Has anyone climbed the first half of Checkerboard and the left angling crack to the crux of Ziggie's? That would be a straighter line. Seems like the climbs on this wall are all a bit illogical, but that's due to history. Using a "straightness" criteria, Checkerboard Crack should start on Rainy Day Woman. Ziggie's should start on Checkerboard Crack. Ziggie's Brother Hank should start on Ziggie's Day out.
Checkerboard Rock
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