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Ryan Keller on variation approaching 1st belay
Description
A superb, moderate route, as good as White Whale. Like that route it is actually on the Left Book, which, although it is part of the Book, requires you to follow the turnoff for the Bookmark (situated in front of the Book) and scramble around west of that rock to the base of the slabby Left Book, which could perhaps even more accurately be termed the "west Book". Confused? If not, you might yet have trouble finding the exact line of the route. The belays are all shared with White Whale, hence the first pitch heads up to a small tree.
P1-Start right of the continuous crack of White Whale, directly below a roof band. climb up a thin dead end crack, make some moves up and left across the slab (sparse pro), go around the left end of the roof, and belay at the tree.
P2-go right from the tree to an obvious pillar with a wide crack that tapers to nothing. When that ends, head up and left to make a belay (full rope-length).
P3-climb a short crack, then traverse off left, or head straight up nebulous 5.7 terrain to the walk-off ledge (avoiding at all costs a water-worn groove which appears easier than it is).
P4-addendum: Move right, and continue up 5.9 to a topless tree to a small, triangular roof.
Protection
Standard rack; the second pitch has an easy wide crack for which one bigger piece such as a #4 Friend might be nice. Make sure you have at least a normal allowance of small gear.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 13, 2002 rating: 5.7+
Agreed that this is a great route. However, it's harder than White Whale despite sharing belays. The 1st pitch has 2 solid cruxes for a 5.7 leader. The P1 variation going straight over the roof is very intimidating for the 5.8 described Rossiter's guide. Big hexes are very useful for the 1st belay because you might like some bigger cams for the start of the 2nd pitch. A #4 Camalot is oh so nice. Definitely worth the effort.
You don't need gear for the first belay as you can sling a solid tree.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 14, 2002 rating: 5.7+
A few disadvantages to slinging the tree: 1) you are in the way for those doing White Whale, 2) it is less comfortable to belay there, 3) you'd have to depend upon a tree - known to be less than reliable over the years, 4) it lengthens 2nd pitch (can be a rope stretcher with a 50m). Plus, a big hex isn't that heavy.
The fact that White Whale and this climb have the same rating points to the nebulous nature of ratings. This climb imho is significantly harder along with some not so easy runouts. Protecting the second pitch (which is great climbing, the best part of the climb) undercling crack is a bit problematic, even too big for a 4 Camalot until you are a significant way above a nasty ledge. It begins to take good pro about half way up but then it fades away to nothing and again you are forced to run it out. Good climbing but not for the faint of heart.
I agree with Leo. Don't sling the tree for your first belay fellas. Speaking from a guide's point of view (used to guide this route) and 29 years of climbing, you'll only plug up the way for guys coming up White Whale. Two parties can easliy fit on this ledge simultaneously without gettin' in each others' way if you move your belay to below the start of the dihedral.
Nice route. We belayed from the spatious ledge above the White Whale tree, then headed up the dihedral (great!). Instead of heading left under the roof and joining White Whale, we went right and joined up with what turns out to be Beelzebub. Belay at the right edge of the "second" of two eyebrows/roofs in a precarious stance, then pull the roof (crux) and wander up 40' of 5.8s slab to Paperback Ledge. Walk off. If you've already done White Whale, this is a different, significantly harder variation well worth your time. The second pitch is fantastic!
By David Hodges From: Denver, Colorado Sep 14, 2007
From the new parking lot the approach is close to 2 miles. The first 1.5 miles are extremely enjoyable and pretty much rolling and the last .5 mile is uphill. Elevation is probably around 9500 or so this could make things more difficult if you are not used to it. Usually takes me between 30-40 minutes.
Left Book
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