Pear Buttress 

Yeah...don't fall. Not only 20 ft. or more up to the first protection, but not a good landing at all. Not gimme 5.7 climbing either. If in doubt, it is easy to avoid this section and the route is still fantastic.

A further note on finding the route: I said it starts where the approach trail ends, but that could be a little confusing, because the trail actually splits just before you come to the rock. The right hand fork is what you want; the flake forming the first pitch faces right, with a large chimney and overhang to the left.

For the unprotected 5.7 start, the bigger the piece one has, the earlier one will be able lean over and place pro behind the flake (though it won be too inspiring--somewhat tipped out). A few feet higher there is a perfect #2.5 Friend placement.

Escalar - I have never done this route, but I have a story about the unprotectable first 20 or 30 feet. About 20 years ago we were on our way to climb the J-Crack when someone fell off of Pear Buttress. Just before we got to the base of the route, a guy came sprinting down the trail on his way to call for a rescue. Seconds later we heard the moans of the victim who was actually chanting "ohhmmmm". We reached him a few minutes later and found out what had happened. He fell nearly 30 feet and luckily landed on his feet, but unluckily also landed on a 4 inch diameter tree root which snapped his lower leg just above the ankle. He had a double compound fracture and was bleeding pretty badly when we got to him. Both bones were sticking out of his wool sock and the blood would really flow when he got anxoius, then it would nearly stop when he chanted and calmed down. We elevated his leg and tried to make him comfortable until the rescue team arrived, incredibly, about 45 minutes later. We never found out how he made out, but I bet his climbing career changed dramatically after that. We went on to climb the J-Crack, but were too nervous to really enjoy it that day.

If you want to lead a 5.9, P2 is much nicer if you climb about 15 feet of the Loose Ends crack (2nd of 2 thin cracks left of the belay), then step left into the easier crack on the regular route, which leads to the belay ledge. In fact, I think doing it that way might make it my favorite 5.9 anywhere...

Somehow despite that vivid description by Escelar I decided to climb this route today. Stellar the whole way. On P3, though, I went about 100 feet up that dynamite hand crack and then traversed _left_ across a clean face under a small roof before turning the roof on its left side. This puts you on a ramp that heads straight up and right at the cave.

More beta, too: you can exit straight out the cave, supposedly 5.8, or take a fun and easy (~5.4) hand traverse horizontally out to the right to the edge, and then up an easy chimney. We took the latter as storm clouds were approaching and we wanted an early exit.

Descent: Basically cruise straight ahead the same direction you were facing while climbing, along some ledges down and then up before you get to a sloping ramp/gully that cuts back down and to the right. Take this, which is fairly defined and has cairns.

Myke, that "easy, ~5.4 hand traverse" is rated 5.7+ or even 5.8 in all the guidebooks! I must add that I agree with them--and though it protects well, it's not sewn-up. Note that I describe both variations under the route, "The Cave Exit".

If you're strapped for time, you can do the route in 3 pitches and still get all the stellar climbing in. P1) Start on top of the leaning flake which puts you right at the crux move and head up to the belay at the base of the classic hand crack. P2) Jam the crack, do the traverse and belay on the standard belay ledge. P3) traverse diagonally right across the slightly runout slab, and over to the base of the obvious flake-filled chimney. Head up the 5.7 chimney (mostly jams and jugs) until your rope runs out. Even if you have a 50 meter rope, you'll still end up at a place where you can safely scramble up to the walk-off.

In the original description you can combine the first 2 pitches with long runners, minimal protection on the 5.4 section, and a 60m rope. Also, after the long 5.8 section, make the traverse under the bulge before the roof, climb up the crack in the middle at 5.7, jam the dihedral, and finish on the same large ledge. Belay spot takes green Aliens, small nuts, and a #4 Camalot. Finish the route with the 5.4 slab/crack and 5.7c cave exit. Total pitches: 3.

Great route! As described in the comment above, the route does combine well into three pitches, though you will have some rope drag. The runout start is all there, but you do have to make some moves on small holds. Rossiter's book says extra #2.5 or #3 Camalots may be useful. The only place you'd need two of those would be towards the top of the flake on P1. I only had one, so there was a bit of a runout (15 feet, maybe?), but the climbing was not too hard. The 8+ section seemed very short.

I noticed when I climbed this recently that there is an anchor consisiting of a pin and a nut connected with a chain. Anyone have any idea how long the rappel is if you rap off left to the Fat City area (i.e can you do it with 1 60m rope to the ground)?

A single rope rappel with a 60m rope does indeed reach the Fat City area from the piton/nut anchor atop pitch 2 of Pear Buttress.

A #5 Camalot can be used to protect the 5.7 move 30 feet off the deck on the first pitch. After you make the move, you can get in a bomber higher piece, clip into it, then back-clean the #5 and lower it to your belayer, since you won't need it for the rest of the climb.

30 feet? a bomber handjam and a 1 or 2 Camalot can be had a like 12 feet. You can also go up the thin crack to the left, it will take a good medium sized stopper after about 8 feet. Leave the 5 Camalot in the car.

The #5 Camalot is useful for the 5.7 face start, which begins 10 feet right of the flake. Using this start, it's not possible to place a smaller cam down low behind the flake since you don't get near the flake until you're 20-30 feet up.

Outstanding Climb. You can run pitch 2 and 3 together if you stretch the rope to the knot for 200 feet of 5.8 hand jamming with excellent exposure. It may require a simal climbing for 5 or so feet depending how you place your gear. Use supper long runners on the traverse from the end of pitch one and the lower part corner.

The 5.9R start isn't too bad - I got in a small TCU and a good small stopper (say #4 or #5) with a screamer about a foot above that in the small vertical seam that tapers out just at the bottom of the flake (8-10 feet off the deck). I felt like this protected the next couple of moves pretty well - as long as you don't blow it right before getting in the next piece about 8 or so feet up you'd be fine.

Like C.V. said climb the begining of "Loose End's" 2nd pitch for 20-30ft and make the traverse (L) back onto "Pear" at the piton belay ledge. Then follow the "Pear" out of the cave exit for one great day of climbing.

After climbing it the first time this weekend, this is now one of my alltime favorite climbs. A classic in my book, and an excellent 5.8 for someone transitioning from 5.7 to 5.8 leading (like me), with one caveat: getting to your first piece.If you're in my league and not confident with runout 5.7 face climbing right off the deck, my advice to you is swallow your pride and don't do the runout at the bottom unless you climb up to the top of the flake and "preset" a piece first. You can still place gear on the way up to the "preset" for experience and the fun of it (and for added safety). Some may object to this technique (and one factor to weigh here is whether there are people waiting behind you), but for me it beats the risk of spending several months in a wheelchair (something a friend of mine is now doing after an 8' fall onto a flat ledge). This climb is too fun to skip due to the runout at the bottom. And the bottom of the first pitch is too fun to skip by starting at the top of the flake.

This is a good climb, but I don't think that it is a 5.8 I would say 5.7, if you can find the right foot holds its pretty easy, but it's smooth, a lot of people have definitely climbed it.

Very enjoyable route with good exposure. Hope you like face climbing cause that first pitch is a little thin and definitely run out. We ended up taking the second crack on the left of the ramp on the second pitch, instead of continuing around the corner. I think it went at 9+. It was thin and definitely every bit of 9+. The third pitch is the prize winner, perfect finger crack which widens to hands. I got a bit sketched on when to traverse right on the undercling. Wait of the second (sic) of and more predominant overhang to traverse right under. Overall, a great route with a beauty of a summit. The walk-off is a bit painful in climbing shoes, I recommend bringing a small bag with food, H2O, and a light weight pair of sandles or shoes for the descent. Enjoy...

Hmmm, maybe I had my expectations too high today after reading all of the gushing comments above. I think Melvin's Wheel was better. The hand crack was nice, the little 5.9 var. added some spice, but but this route is definitely not on my list of all- time favorites-- pretty good, but I probably won't go back to do it again.

Great route! On P1 a wide stem over to the flake was the move my leader made for a stance to place a #4 cam behind the flake for the (7) start. An easy move, yet mentally difficult for the leader because of the consequence as stated by others above.. a no fall move for sure....The crux move above off the flake is interesting, IMO favors those with a longer arms, involving a high reach finger lock into the headwall crack...very short sequence though, to a good hold a foot or two higher.The most enjoyable climbing for me was the P3 hand/finger crack. Great jams! We went to the right below the small roof above this crack and continued up a slab to the cave, exiting through its roof. The roof in this cave is well protected and not as difficult as it might appear at first glance..albeit awkward its a fun finish.

Climbed this for the first time on lead today. I got off route a couple times, but managed to make it to the cave. I thought the cave was tricky at first, but it really is not that bad. You can get some really good cams in the flake on the wall. The flake sounds hollow, and flexes quite a lot, but the cams look good so don't worry. Lead with the left hand over the lip and find the jug, It's pretty easy if you get the stem with your leg on the opposite wall. I only give two stars because of the tricky route finding and wandering line.

This route is stellar. The third pitch is first rate. The cave exiit is as much of a stemming problem as it is a roof problem.

Did this route a few days ago, and it was one of the best routes I've ever climbed. I led every pitch and enjoyed all of them. The runout start isn't bad at all, it's just a little intimidating when one first looks at it, but its easy after getting over the mental aspect. The third pitch is totally awesome, what a perfect deep crack, not the usual shallow Lumpy flared crack. I would suggest this route to anyone looking for a good moderate route with great climbing and great views.

Awesome Climb! P1 5.9 goes well using an Alien (5 - 10 feet) off the deck and a #4.5 Camalot once the crack narrows. An extra #2 Camalot with a standard rack; nuts, Aliens, and Camalots up to #4.5 protect the route well. Beta for the cave exit: I recommend stemming to place a cam just below the pin and clipping into the pin. You can then step back down and climb the route by hand traversing out on the rail. Heel hook / bump up with your right hand to the next rail and then stem / step up to the rail to gain purchase above the roof.

Excellent climb. The first and third pitches are superb. If you bypass the 5.7R start, you shortchange yourself, so do it or come back when you are ready. On that note, the level of commitment is set very high and the moves are not simple on the 5.7R start so get your experienced partner to put up the first pitch. Enjoy.

A friend and I got blown off this route earlier today, and we had to leave a nut and a gold Camalot to retreat from. If anybody climbs the route and retrieves this piece, please shoot me an email at plummetforfun@hotmail.com.

Thanks.

Just did this route for the 5th time. There have been lots of comments about linking pitches and here is my addition to the discussion.

We did the route from top to bottom in 3 pitches with a 60 m rope by bypassing the 5.4 3rd pitch on Pear Buttress.

P1: Started the 5.7 PG-13 face climb and climbed all the way up to the barnacled/crystal ledge at the base of two finger cracks. (linked P1&2)

P2: Went up the left of two finger cracks (5.9 -- P2 of loose ends) up past the chain belay ledge through the hand crack on Pear Buttress and to the notch below the small roof

P3: Did the small roof traverse with long slings, up through the run out slabs, up to the cave exit and belayed at slung boulders on the summit.

We were able to go pack to pack in just about 2 hours