This is the middle crag of series of 3 (more-or-less vertically aligned) crags just to the E of Twin Owls. Just below lies Triangle Rock, obvious from its shape viewed from the West. S. Kimball's guide describes these cliffs as 'undistinguished.' This crag is identified distinctively by its aesthetic, SW-facing, arching crack, Gollum's Arch (depicted on p 202 of Rossiter's The Crags Areas guide). Overall, the lower crag with the majority of the routes is approximately 130-150 ft high. There are several quality, short routes here, including the above classic namesake, Facial Hair, Close Encounters, & Hand Latch. It can be quite warm here on sunny days.
Descent, historically, from the rock has been done by scrambling off 3rd or 4th class to the E or W. One can also descend via rappel from some of the routes. Note that the rappel from Frigidaire/Gollum's area is over 100 ft.
Getting There
From the new parking lot, you can take either trail to approach this crag as it makes basically a circle with the parking area being ~6 o'clock & this crag being ~12 o'clock. Either approach is ~1 mile. If you go west from the parking lot, you will need to head northeast after ~0.6 miles. Then, follow the trail that wanders up north between Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Veer right to Gollum's Arch when you are just below Hen & Chickens. If you approach from the right (north) trail, head west when you T into the Gem Lake trail junction. From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Expect about 20-25 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gollum's Arch Rock:
This route is not on [Twin Owls]. It lies on [Gollum's] Rock which is directly east of Twin Owls. This is a smaller cliff about one hundred feet high. Approach as though going to Hen and Chickens Rock and when next to that cliff look east 100 yards to find an hundred foot left-arching, aesthetic crack, this is the route.This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
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