This area has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
Harder than it looks!
Description
This is the middle crag of series of 3 (more-or-less vertically aligned) crags just to the E of Twin Owls. Just below lies Triangle Rock, obvious from its shape viewed from the W. S. Kimball's guide describes these cliffs as 'undistinguished.' This crag is identified distinctively by its aesthetic, SW-facing, arching crack, Gollum's Arch (depicted on p 202 of Rossiter's The Crags Areas guide). Overall, the lower crag with the majority of the routes is approximately 130-150 ft high. There are several quality, short routes here, including the above classic namesake, Facial Hair, Close Encounters, & Hand Latch. It can be quite warm here on sunny days.
Descent, historically, from the rock has been done by scrambling off 3rd or 4th class to the E or W. One can also descend via rappel from some of the routes. Note that the rappel from Frigidaire/Gollum's area is over 100 ft.
Getting There
Approach via the Upper Twin Owls/Gollum's Arch trail on the E side of Twin Owls. Currently, its access is off a short hike along the Gem Lake Trail going E from the Twin Owls parking lot. Apparently, in the future, it will be approached by going W from the new too-be-constructed lot. Expect about 15 minutes.
This route is not on [Twin Owls]. It lies on [Gollum's] Rock which is directly east of Twin Owls. This is a smaller cliff about one hundred feet high. Approach as though going to Hen and Chickens Rock and when next to that cliff look east 100 yards to find an hundred foot left-arching, aesthetic crack, this is the route.This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably...[more]
Gollum's Arch Rock
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