Mountain Project: Climbing Lumpy Ridge

Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]

Getting There

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs).

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:

Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II

Backflip 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II

The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II

East Side 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches

Inside Straight 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Joy and Tribulation 5.9 R Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II

Fantasy Ridge 5.9 R Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II

Star Trek 5.10a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet

Romulan Territory 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II

Bellyflop 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Between The Sheets 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches

Featured Route For The Bookmark

Sara Reeder following Between The Sheets.

Between The Sheets 5.11b CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark

Splitter, thin crack and face climbing on the West Face of the Bookmark. The guidebooks say to approach from the first two pitches of Fantasy Ridge. Sounds good. but we scrambled to the ledge below the crack. You can do it either way. The route is obvious from the ledge.P1 - Climb the thin cracks to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+.P2 - Traverse right to the buttress and face climb to the top. 5.10d....[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on The Bookmark

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By pete cogan
Jun 28, 2003

A note on the rap chains which have replaced the "dead tree" anchors. As you rap into the gully off these chains toward the left book, you'll note two slings and a biner as you are very close to running out of your 60M rope. We put these on 6/28/03 as what used to be there was gone.

By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003

Adding to what Pete said above, the usual threaded rap slings in the gully have been removed. Apparently some selfish individual has delegated to the rest of the community their opinon on what constitutes an unacceptable way of descending the Bookmark.

A slung block (blue webbing with rap ring) can be found below by scrambling down the ramp next to the old rap spot. Better yet, if someone reads this who is heading up to the Bookmark, bring some black or grey webbing and a rap ring and re-establish the old rap anchor.

By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 12, 2003

There is now two large slings and two rap rings at the 100 ft. mark below the chains, when rapping toward the Left Book. Thanks to those who replaced them.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Jun 27, 2005

There is a new (for me) set of bolts and chains on the west side of the notch. About 90' down is a slung chockstone (two slings and two rap rings as of yesterday). This second rap brings you to a little easy scrambling and onto hiking terrain. It's a much better rap than heading down the east gully; especially if your packs are on the west side of the rock.

By Will12
From: Fort Collins
Nov 10, 2008

Be very careful when pulling your rope off of the gully rap. A large rock fell from the gully and almost hit me and my partner. Be careful and have fun up there!

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The Bookmark

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Getting There

The Classics