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DescriptionProbably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents. Getting ThereFrom the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twin Owls:
Pin Route 5.5 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Organ Pipes 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Central Chimney 5.7+ Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
East Ridge 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Wolf's Tooth 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch
Tiger's Tooth 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches
Rather Fight Than Switch 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch
Jamesia Jam 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Crack of Fear 5.10d Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
West Owl Direct aka Silly Putty 5.12a C2 R Trad, Aid
Anaconda 5.13c Trad
Featured Route For Twin Owls
Tiger's Tooth 5.9+ CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
See Wolf's Tooth for basic location. This is the route that climbs the crack between the right side of the detached pillar and the main buttress of the Owl (Wolf's Tooth climbs the left side).This is an excellent route, with very sustained climbing on the crack section of pitch one. The bottom is somewhat overhanging hand/fist crack, which opens to offwidth after about 25 feet. The offwidth continues to widen until it becomes a squeeze chimney after about 60 feet. S...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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