Twin Owls. Photo by Blitzo.
Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth
(5.8), Peaches and Cream
(5.11+), East Ridge
(5.8), and the Pin Route
(5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls
", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.
Check the closures before heading here.
From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach.
Weather station 1.4 miles from here
43 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Twin Owls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Twin Owls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Twin Owls:
Pin Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
East Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
Jamesia Jam 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
C2 Aid, 3 pitches
Featured Route For Twin Owls
Rather Fight Than Switch 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CO
: Lumpy Ridge
: Twin Owls
This fine pitch is on the east face of the Twin Owls. 30 feet right of the base of the East Ridge is a very obvious, wide chimney. This is Turn, Turn, Turn - 5.7. The next continuous crack system to the right is Switch Cracks - 5.8. Switch Cracks bails left onto Turn, Turn, Turn after 70 feet while Rather Fight Than switch continues up the crack system through the obvious roof above. There is excellent jamming throughout the entire pitch with some wild, STEEP hands through the final...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Twin Owls
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2005
I have always found the descriptions to the descent of the "[Bowels] of the [Owls]" somewhat confusing . Basically you head down what seems to start out to be straightforward easy class 4 down climb from the low point grassy area between the two summits. When u cliff out look to your left for rap slings around a boulder. You will be peering down what looks like a vertical cave about 25 feet deep. You can downclimb it but the walls are a little slick and quite often wet. You will probably want to lower any packs/ropes etc. down the well first as it is quite narrow. Once you make it safely down the well, you are basically down to terra firma. There is a great trail down the eastern side (You can also hike down the western side) which eventually joins the [Gem Lake] trail.
Oct 24, 2005
Comment on the descent. If you are going up for the first time be sure you know where the Bowls are b/c if you descend in the wrong chimney it will be bad. My first time up there I accidentally descended the Central Chimney thinking it was the Bowels-honest mistake. Anyway this turned out to be a mini epic that could have resulted in much worse than the slings and rings I ended up leaving.
By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2009
The Bowels decent is straightforward but avoid the chimney cave. There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under a large block descender's right and just before the cave on the Bowels of the Owls decent. Basically instead of stepping left around a ledge to get to the cave, go straight to where it cliffs out and look under the large flat block.
This rap is clean and does not require going in the chimney as I have heard reported elsewhere. There is an anchent bolt stub on this block so apparently its not a new idea.
This is much easier than spelunking in the cave. 50 m rope is fine.