This area has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
BETA PHOTO
Description
Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.
Check the closures before heading here.
Getting There
Head east from the old Twin Owls parking lot, and take the appropriate approach path as described for your route.
From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area.
Seasonal Closures
Note, this crag is typically closed March 1 to August 1 for raptor nesting.
This is the hardest climb I have ever done. I can offer a first-hand account of the first two pitches only (we rapped due to the onset of darkness). However, the third pitch could not be more obvious, and if you can do the crux second pitch you should have no problems with it, according to my partner who had done the route previously.Hike up the Gem Lake trail past a huge boulder, and take the left-hand approach path for ?Bowls of the Owls?...[more]
I have always found the descriptions to the descent of the "[Bowels] of the [Owls]" somewhat confusing . Basically you head down what seems to start out to be straightforward easy class 4 down climb from the low point grassy area between the two summits. When u cliff out look to your left for rap slings around a boulder. You will be peering down what looks like a vertical cave about 25 feet deep. You can downclimb it but the walls are a little slick and quite often wet. You will probably want to lower any packs/ropes etc. down the well first as it is quite narrow. Once you make it safely down the well, you are basically down to terra firma. There is a great trail down the eastern side (You can also hike down the western side) which eventually joins the [Gem Lake] trail.
Comment on the descent. If you are going up for the first time be sure you know where the Bowls are b/c if you descend in the wrong chimney it will be bad. My first time up there I accidentally descended the Central Chimney thinking it was the Bowels-honest mistake. Anyway this turned out to be a mini epic that could have resulted in much worse than the slings and rings I ended up leaving.
Twin Owls
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