Although treated rather dismissively by most guide books, this is one of the better easy routes to be found out there. It is relatively long,(3-4 pitches), nicely exposed and has a fine position high above the Fall River Valley. As for most McGregor routes, the endless options for variation have caused confusion in identifying the designated path. Yet, the left side of the slab has some more well defined features that set it apart. I suppose this could be done in 2 60m pitches, but for convenience I describe it in 4 100-120 ft leads.
Start: Approach the face from the right side where a climber's trail winds up the hillside then cross over to the extreme left base of the slab. Virtually every guidebook describes the start of the climb, (and the climb proper), as going up a right facing flake system on the left side of the slab. However, beginning up a pine-studded slab just left of the right facing system is a better option.
P1. Wander up the slab past a large, bushy pine to a belay near a broken flake with a pink rock scar, 5.2.
P2. Move left into a crack system that angles up towards the left side of a prominent right-angling overhang, 5.3. For a shorter pitch to facilitate communication, belay on a ledge with a small tree just below the overhang.
P3. Pass the overhang on its left and move up a fine crack-laced face to a nicely exposed belay at a flake up and left, 5.3.
P4. Go straight up a crack to the end of roped climbing, (that is, if you are using one), at large, broken, vegetated ledges, 5.2.
Either continue to the top and descend down the east side or, quicker, downclimb-rappel into the left gully. This is 4th class with many intermediate ledges and trees.
An excellent 5.5 variation goes directly up from the first lead through the center of the prominent overhang via a singular, beautiful left-angling crack. These upper pitches are among the finest I have experienced at this grade.
Protection
Standard rack with long runners to tie-off trees and flakes.
This climb is THE best climbing of the grade (or about any grade) that I have done. I have climbed it with Jim McGuire the person that posted this climb. Definitely a classic.
We got off route, I ended up leading some crack that was about 5.6; any way you go it is fun though !!! BTW I left a Nalgene bottle up there, so free booty for whoever finds it.
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