This is a writeup is based upon firsthand experience, and the name and FA have been added as I have come upon the information. This is a very nice route up the left side of McGregor Slab. It probably briefly crosses Lubrication and Direct in a few spots. It has 5 pitches, of which the 2nd and 3rd stand out in quality. In some ways, P2 reminds one of P5 of Birds of Fire. Nonetheless, you may wearing a broad smile after a trip up. Thoughtfully-bolted. It may feel runout in spots, but there is pro where you need it. Kudos to the FA.
P1. Follow 4 bolts up a low-angle slab. Watch for loose rocks on the ledges. Aim for an obvious tree with 2 slings and 2 rap rings. The crux of this pitch is in the first 10 feet; however, you can make it easier moving left of the 1st bolt. 5.7. ~125'.
P2. This is a terrific pitch. It is sustained. Slab-climbers will love this pitch. Continue up a slab, chasing bolts, popping over 2 overlaps, and weave 2 S-shaped paths up to a 2 bolt anchor. There are just enough holds to keep you going, but slabby enough to demand your attention. There are probably 4 cruxes (below 2nd bolt, 1st overlap, 2nd overlap, and around bolt 7). 5.9, ~175'.
P3. This is the crux pitch, but it is not sustained. It will require some route-finding. Angle right past a bolt, continue angling right to another bolt, pop over a 5.7 roof (above the bolt) on jugs. Clip a bolt and go up to a horizontal. Here's the crux. Delicately balance your way up past the next two bolts. You can go left or right at this 4th bolt (which may be a stretch). Continue up on easier terrain to a larger horizontal below a slab. Find a bolt out left. Pop up onto the slab and find the 2 bolt anchor up and left. 5.9+. ~190'.
P4. Continue up a short, right-facing corner to a slab with 4 bolts. Continue up and slightly left to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8-. ~155'.
P5. Meander up on easy terrain angling right to a mini-headwall with a tree at a big ledge. 5.4. ~140'.
To descend, you can continue to the top and walk-off right or left. Also, if you have 2 x 60m ropes, you can rap from the top of P5. Watch that flake 15' above the P4 anchor. It catches ropes.
Location
Find this climb starting just left of where the approach trail reaches the crag. Find a line of 4 bolts.
Protection
15 slings (ideally 10 24"), cams blue Alien/TCU to #3 Camalot. Wireds are optional. 60m ropes!
What worked for us: P1. 4 QDs for bolts, green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalot. P2. 13 QDs (ideally many 24") for bolts, #1 Camalot, green/black Alien. P3. 5 QDs (ideally 24") for bolts, #0.75 Camalot, blue Alien, #2 or #3 Camalot, yellow Alien. P4. 4 QDs for bolts, cams blue Alien/TCU to #3 Camalot. P5. Blue/green/yellow Aliens. Maybe a #0.75 Camalot.
I noticed a line of bolts, starting perhaps 150 feet off the ground, heading up a large slabby section that's left of Indirect. Does anyone know anything about the bolted line? Rating? History/FA info? (My distances and route references might be a bit off; I lost some perspective once I got on the rock.)
McGregor is a great, south-facing cliff and is often in great condition for climbing by March and good through October due to the brilliant sunshine up here. Enjoy!
The answer to your question is YES, I do know who put it up.It was done ground up, on lead, hand drilled, in the middle of winter (finished 12-22-02). Full rap stations so you can rap at any belay or from the top down, no more nasty winter hike, and it is quite moderate as it only has a few 9+ moves. First pitch goes to the tree at about 5.7 second and third go 9 and 9+ to anchors, fourth and fifth to top go about a soft 5.8. You do need a small rack to about 3 and have fun.
This is a fine route. Thanks to the person who put this up. Clearly a tremendous effort, and well thought out. Pitches two and three are fantastic. Pitch four is fun. The fifth pitch is quite low angle, and it has various features that catch rappel ropes. I would do the 5th only for a walk off descent. If you have two 60 meter ropes, rap from the 4th belay.
Really enjoyed this route. We did pitches 1-4 then rapped down with 2 60 m ropes; no issues getting the ropes down - we skipped pitch 5 based on Lew's suggestion, as pulling the ropes looked like it could be tricky, esp when windy. I agree with other's comments that this route was thoughtfully bolted.
Kateri, you sure have the fastest post in the West! Like an hour after we came down the hill. I would add that it would be nice if someone took a wrench up with them; some of the belay anchor hangars are loose.
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