Descent Route 

FA:  chipmunk Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.2 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 72 page views Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 11, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is the line to the right of the Uphill Slabs aka TR wall. It is probably the easiest way to the top of the rock. Rossiter's guidebook rates it as 5.4. Gillett's guidebook rates it as 5.0. So, let's split the difference. It probably depends on exactly where you stop, since getting to the first set of chains is a bit easier/less exposed than getting to the top.

Start just to the right of the shallow, RFD/crescent of the north face of the rock. Follow jugs up. Not much pro until about 30 ft up. Some cracks appear. There are chains about 60 ft up. There are also chains at the top of the rock. Note, these are set back a bit, so you get a bit of rope drag.

Probably, most important, this is not the best route for a small kid, since the holds are fairly well-spaced.

Location 

North face of the rock, just to the right of a shallow, right-facing dihedral.

Protection 

Light rack to at most a #3 Camalot.