Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Quartz Garden
Show routes:
Select route...
Garden Weasle 
Little Wing 
Rusted Razor 

Little Wing 

5.9

   

FA: Pain and Mills, 1994
Type: Trad, Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 163 page views

Submitted By: Michael Walker on Aug 11, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

Just down the hill from Rusted Razor, a good size ledge juts out over the rocky gully with a steep, smooth face rising above. Little Wing starts from this ledge and follows three bolts up the pretty face to the top of the rock island. The setting alone affords two stars, but the (current!) need for Derry-do to set up an anchor at the top and its short stature may detract from its overall quality in some climber's eyes.

The first bolt is a high one and is compounded by small holds for the clip. With a hearty sigh, continue up the challenging face past another bolt to easier ground. At the final bolt, it is possible to escape left to ease the second crux to 8+, or continue straight up at 10b.

This route could be called Missing Wing, for as of Summer 2001, the bolts at the top were missing hangers. But, pre-inspection after an ascent of Rusted Razor will ensure you bring the right gear to back up a couple of _Stopper Enabled_ bolts for a safe anchor.


Protection 

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor. The steep face has three bolts, then decision time at the last bolt. (inspect the current condition of the anchor before climbing this one!)



Add Comment Comments on Little Wing
Show which comments
By Scott Thompson
Aug 1, 2004

Route still has missing hangars as of today. Gear anchor on top is a slung horn/small cams. It is easy to rap off the anchors of Rusted Razor rather than walk off.

Good climb! Solid rock and nice verticality for the first 15 feet.