This route is located on the second bolted buttress uphill on the trail at Jurassic Park, located on the left hand side of the trail. This route climbs the leftmost bolted rib/arete of the bunch of routes on this wall. The climbing is very straightforward following the ridge to the anchor. A nice warmup and good lead for beginners, being well bolted and fairly easy. This route [formerly shared] anchors with the next route uphill 'Middle Toe'. The rock is quite clean and moves are fairly fun - 2 stars. You will want a 60m rope as you may have to downclimb with a 50m. Cheers.
By Rick Thompson From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO Jan 30, 2002
I believe the correct spelling is TOE, not tow. Possibly the hardest "so-called" 5.8 in the entire Lump Ridge Area. I've seen a rather respectable line up of climbers hanging all over this crux. More like 10a, or REAL old fashioned 9+. FA: Douglas Snively & Bernard Gillett, 1996.
Pheeew. Thought I was just plain WEAK until I read Rick's comments. Yes indeed, this one's hard for 5.8 - I hung on this baby for a while and had to lower to let my partner take a stab.
It's really not that *Hard*, but until I saw the right sequence I was S-T-U-C-K.
This climb is indeed 5.8 you just need some route finding skills to locate the correct holds. Fun! Please do not pass this one by because of claims of a sandbag. It's not.
I would say that this climb is definitely 5.8 - but it is kind of tricky at the crux... not hard though... also - we ran out of rope so we had to do some creative bouldering/downclimbing/sketchy rope trickery. pretty much everything here requires a full 60 m. all of the climbs downslope from this one were much better... and the 9 next to this one looked better too although i didn't get a chance to hop on it
The first part is a respectable, fun arete but the crux is no way 5.8. From to crux bolt to the next would be hairy for a 5.8 leader. The rest of the climb seemed like 5.6 on out sections. The view at the anchors made all the cursing at the crux worth while. If you top rope, there is lots of drag. :)
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 7, 2006 rating: 5.8+
Fun route with a lot of required smearing and faith in friction- tough on a hot day in the sun. It stays sunny most of the day, until late afternoon.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Jun 25, 2006 rating: 5.8+
Very fun and long, not an easy lead for 5.8 leaders, consecutive insecure and committing sequency moves at the crux. A bit runout but easy at the top. The first bolt and the bolt below the crux have spinning hangers.
By Debbie Vischer From: Fort Collins May 12, 2008 rating: 5.8
Fun route for sure. Definitely need to trust your feet on this one as the hands are thin at the crux (bolt 6?). Also, a 60m rope is a must, esp if you pass the achors and extend to the anchors of the adjacent routes.
Interesting selection of comments. After leading this again last weekend, I think I see what's going on. The route has a 5.8 crux move, but an irritating 5.9 stretch to clip the bolt that protects this move. This bolt (#7?) is placed too far right, and too high. Move this bolt down and left about a foot or so, and the route could be an enjoyable 5.8 lead, and the comments on this fine route would be more uniformly favorable.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Jul 5, 2008 rating: 5.8
Just don't clip that bolt before making the move. I'm a shorter climber and had no shot of making that clip until after making the move (the last bolt isn't much further down, so the fall wouldn't be bad). It is a rather committing, balance move, but aside from that the rest of the climb is rather mellow. After making the step, I wouldn't say it was actually harder than 5.8, but mentally it might seem harder since you are making a high step onto a small foothold without very good hands.
I would say this is definitely not 5.9... it is no where near as hard as Edge of Time(5.9). I would say it is also substantially easier than Joint Venture (which also gets a 5.8 rating)
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