At the 3rd bolt. The route angles slightly left fr...
Description
This is a nice moderate route on good rock right of the trad route that is right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo. It makes a good warmup for the harder climbs, being steeper than Gypsies in the Palace (the first pitch of Fire Widow), and it would fit in well with a day of moderate pitches including the 6 trad at the far left, Gypsies in the Palace and the first pitch of Alloy Madness.
The climb starts just left of the gully and angles gently left over several bulges. There's one particular hard move about half way up. Seemed harder than the 5.8 Gypsies in the Palace and seemed harder to me than the 5.9 first pitch of Alloy Madness (whose crux overhang off the ground seems easy for me). So 5.9 seems about right.
Protection
Maybe 8 bolts (count them yourself) to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.
Add PhotoPhotos of Unknown right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo
I think Chuck is at the crux. You can go at least ...
This photo shows almost all of the route. The crac...
Add CommentComments on Unknown right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo
This route was really fun, I'd give it 3 stars. Just to the right of this route is a gully and just to the right of that is some other bolted route, 5 bolts + anchor. No clue what it is called or rated (thought is was hard) but at the 4th bolt the hanger ripped off of the bolt on my second. This was horrifying! Thankfully it happened after my lead. Anyway, this route is now missing a hanger and the one at the seconnd bolt is loose too.
Ironsides
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