Left of Shaking the Pope's Hand you will see an obvious 4 ft. roof, which gets much bigger as you move down the crag. This route goes straight up the right side of the roof, right at the point where it forms a dihedral above (yes, I know this is kind of a lame description, but it's clear when you're there).
A bouldery start leads to the first bolt (10+/11- unless you use the cheater's start on a boulder), then 5.8 past two more bolts to the roof and a no-hands rest. Hardmen/women will just fire up and clip the next bolt mid-crux. Softies will place a green alien in a flake above the roof first. Solve the strange crux sequence to surmount the roof, then go up on much easier ground past one more bolt to the chain anchor. Fun route.
Protection
5 QDs plus something for the chain anchor. Those who want even better pro on the crux roof can bring along a blue TCU or green Alien.
It is possible to climb into the crux sequence, clip the bolt, and down-climb to the no-hands rest. It is also possible (but somewhat aggravating) to clip the bolt, just barely, by scrunching yourself up under the roof, without commiting to the holds above the roof. The route would be an interesting gear lead, reasonably protected at the roof, but run-out below on 5.8.
Charles, I've wondered about leading this route on gear, too. The crux and above would definitely have reasonable pro, although, as you note, the 5.8 below the crux would be iffy. Perhaps this could be one of the first routes of the imminent "retro-trad" renaissance. ;-)
Yes, you can clip the bolt over the roof without [committing] to the moves (I'm 5'9"), then power thru the roof, an excellent route for the area.
By Tim Fleming From: Boulder, CO Aug 13, 2002 rating: 5.11b
For anyone climbing this crux under 5'8" or so, the holds just over the roof are very tough if not impossible to reach unless you use a toe hook under the roof in the crack and hang on a good hold (right hand) at the edge of the roof... then you can reach up and grab (left hand) the flake jug easily. Try it out no matter what height --- it's a very fun option to manage the crux this way.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 25, 2005
Watch yer left shin or ya might leave a few hairs, blood, or more if you aren't careful pulling the roof.
Mount Boner
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