BETA PHOTO: P1 of The Giant. Start on the big ledge 20 feet ab...
Description
Smearing, offwidth, handcrack, fingercrack, chimneying to a layback, this climb offers it all. Gear placements are tricky and some rock is loose.
P1 climbs the green, triangular-looking (left) dihedral up through two roofs, placements are solid in the crack (not on the face). Pull through a couple bulges with great hand and finger cracks, and set belay 110 feet up on an eagle ledge. I used the top of the butress to rap my rope around for anchor.
P2 follows a ramp of hollow but solid flakes to the right,then traverses left just under a face. Move left around the corner and encounter another 30 feet of little roofs and ledges no harder than 5.9. Great face and finger cracks on P2. Beware when climbing in this area, rock fall has potential.
Location
This route is better seen heading downstream but lies acrossed the river 100 feet left of White Dike. On the arete feature of the river bend. Cross the river upsteam from the bend, climb the 4th class ledges up to the green dihedral. After P2, exit to climber's left through a notch to the 4th class gully to the west. Kinda tricky but a good sheep run.
Protection
Normal rack. Bring a lot of small, finger-size pieces, smaller size Hexes. Extras on #3 size. A #4 and #6 C4 were helpful, or a medium Bigbro. Used all 8 slings and a double sling for the 1st roof.
Looks like an interesting route. Was that you guys up there today? (Sept 11, '09). I stopped briefly and yelled up to you guys asking about the climb. Will have to have a go at it! Looked like a great line.
Pitch 2 of this climb is not recomended but a spicy, scary lead on awesome granite, although some loose rock is present. There will be a rap station for this climb in the near future.
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