MD ascends the south face in two reasonably moderate pitches.
P1, 70ft, 5.10, begins on the ledge above the abondoned marble quarry. Easy climbing to the 5th clip where things get lots smaller and hard to see. Beta: at the 5th clip cut right and then shift back left to a stance above the clip you just passed. The pitch stays tricky until the anchor. I found myself climbing a bit right of clips and then shifting back left a couple of times. Hand holds are hard to see, but every clip should feel stable.
P2, 50ft, 5.10 has more of the same type of climbing but has been bolted a bit more closely. The first three clips are tricky with inobvious hands, but things ease off significantly after the 4th clip.
The name: anyone who climbs slabs will be damned, particularly by all those mothers who want their childern to grow up as normal and well adjusted human beings.
Location
South face, 20ft right of Scott Sills' black hanger route and left of the large gash that forms the most obvious feature of the south face.
Protection
Ten draws and a 60 meter rope. It is possible to rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope. However, two raps will get you down easily with 60 meter rope.
Mary's Bust
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