Ken Parker on the easier trad-protected climbing m...
Description
A fine two pitch route to the top of Combat Rock. One of the best this crag has to offer. Characterized by intricate granite face climbing and bouldery cruxes.
A few lines of bolts head up to the right of the large roof at the bottom left end of the cliff. The first line of bolts (well spaced) is the first pitch of Pearl Harbor. This is exfoliating for its first half and not the greatest pitch. The next line to the right is Eight Clicks to Saigon. [Begin] with this pitch.
Follow the bolts and gear placements to the bulge about 70 feet up. The route comes very close to P1 of Pearl Harbor at this point. Pulling through the bulge is the 10c crux of this pitch. It is slightly reachy. A couple hard, inobvious, and commiting moves will get you through the bulge. If you manage to onsight this, pat yourself on your back. Wander up the face to the bolted belay halfway up the Diagonal Crack.
The line of bolts heading up from the belay is P2 of Pearl Harbor, and is stellar. Follow the bolts up the headwall to the right of the Diagonal roof/dihedral. The bouldery crux (bolt at waist) is up high and will be obvious when you reach it, but the rest of the pitch is very sustained at 9/10-. Belay at the bolted anchor, and make two double rope rappels to the ground.
Protection
Mostly bolted, but bring a set of TCUs through hand sized cams. Expect some slightly runout climbing on easier ground - not a sport route for sure.
For those interested in doing P1 of Pearl Harbor: I thought the first pitch had good rock, although some of the darker colored rock at the beginning seems slippery. Take a light rack that includes small TCUs and RPs and you can reduce the runout nature of this pitch. The 10b crux through the roof is very, very delicate and committing as you have to essentially pull into a standing position then gingerly work your feet up a thin diagonal ledge to easier climbing with absolutely no hands (at least I found none). However, if you can stay cool, the angle of the rock makes this possible. I found P1 of Pearl Harbor to be more challenging than P2. The protection is poorer and the hands are much worse, yet the fall consequences are worse on P1.
I thought P1 was harder than P2. The few feet just past the second bolt were absolutely bare of holds for either feet or hands. My partner went slightly left, which I could not see possible. I went straight up towards the roof. I cheated on the crux move up and over the roof as I grabbed the quickdraw with my left hand to balance myself. Once you stood up, though, the diagonal crack allowed for the delicate moves up. P2 was very thin, but I thought definitely doable (without cheating :-).
I found p1 to be easier, but I'm a slab climber at heart and found the foot work at the roof trustworthy if you have developed a knack for it. I have lead pitch one and only follow pitch 2, which is a very fun long pitch. When you pull the crux you may think the climb is over but like another commenter stated, it is sustained 9 and 10 for a while after the last bolt.
Pitch 2 is probably the best single pitch on Combat. Take a yellow TCU or Alien...
By Christina kalb From: Fort Collins, CO Jun 9, 2008 rating: 5.10d
I agree...I thought pitch 1 was harder than pitch 2. I also thought that most of the crux moves of pitch 2 were near the bolts, and didn't need to place any extra gear on pitch 2. I followed pitch 1, but found the roof to be difficult and VERY AWKWARD. Pitch 2 was definitely worth pulling the ugly roof though.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Jul 21, 2008
Way to go Christa and Christina, but I think that I definitely agree with Allen. I am guessing that Christa and Christina may be missing something here, as I was able to rock up and over on relatively positive feet and hands.
I believe that right off of the belay, P2 gets in your face and really doesn't let up. I think that no move is much harder than the crux of the first pitch, but there aren't many easier either. The whole second pitch was thin and balancey, adding a certain level of commitment as everything starts to feel greasy when the sun comes up on a hot July day. In my limited experience here, this route typifies the climbing at Combat - thin and committing slab in most places with well spaced bolting. Definitely not necessarily for the 10 sport climber.
On the second pitch I believe that my partner used a #2 C3 (for those who love discussing gear).
Combat Rock
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