Chateau Vert 

FA:  Tommy Caldwell, 1996 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 105 page views Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jun 23, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Just to the right of the mega-classic Psychatomic there is a right-angling crack that eventually fades to blocky, enjoyable face climbing. Start by clipping a single bolt from a large boulder and fire through a series of laybacks and a few hand-jams with good gear options. Place a couple great pieces at the end of the crack and then run for the chains through a puzzling section of face climbing. Mantle a mini ledge to awkwardly clip the chains. This sustained and aesthetic route is well worth bringing in your rack for.

Protection 

One bolt protects the move off of the boulder. Bring a light rack up to 1 inch. Two bolt anchor.