Pancho's Happy Bottom Riding Club 

FA:  AL and CJ Simons Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 180 feet Season:  any time theres no snow Views: 85 page views Submitted By: allen simons on Mar 30, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Panchos and Calico as seen from US Highwa...

Description 

Crux 30 feet off the ground protected by 2nd bolt. Pull the short, vertical section (8+) or go up and right at first bolt and the entire climb then goes at 5.5 runout. If you want an easy day slabbin' up solid granite with an abundance of holds, this is a fun climb.

Location 

Park 0.1-0.2 miles west of the siphon tube, paved parking north side of road. Walk west for 100 yards and pick a bushwhack path up the steep, loose, road cut to the base of a big, 60 degree slab. Route starts 30 yards up hill and west from a big pine tree near the right end of an up-left slanting grass/rock shelf. Look for the firt two bolts 20 and 30 feet up at the lip.

Protection 

Pitch one, 4 bolts. Pitch two, 2 bolts. May be able to wiggle in a nut or cam here and there, but the cruxes are well-protected. Bolted belay at 100 feet and 180 feet. Route and rap can be done with a single long rope.