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Trash Crack 

5.8- PG13

   

FA: 
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: All Year
Views: 111 page views

Submitted By: Travis R. Thompson on Sep 30, 2007


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Bomber Piece Man!


Description 

There is a "half" of a crack between Mists of Mordor and The Practice Wall. Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got).
From here I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)
This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves).
From here continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor. I left two stoppers for an anchor but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.


Location 

Down from Half pipe up from the practice wall. Its the same pull out as for Shark's fin wall.


Protection 

Nothing but Stoppers, a lot of them were bigger, but one was a #4 turned sideways, as were the rest because the placements were so shallow.



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By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Sep 30, 2007

I wouldn't even get on this thing unless you have a really strong head about you and feel really good with the grade.

P.S.- Yes I had recently read the article "Superchoss" in Climbing Magazine.

By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Oct 11, 2007

I was looking at it and was thinking that you might not actually hit the ground if you fell from your second piece, but you would be really close and I wouldn't recommend trying it and finding out.