La Facada Norte 

FA:  Al Simons-James Barnum New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 140 feet Season:  Any warm dry day- in the shade till 11am in the summer Views: 138 page views Submitted By: allen simons on Aug 16, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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All of the ironing board slabs uphill from the 0.6...

Description 

Start under the bolt and pull up gaining a small ramp (5.8). Head for the next bolt 40 feet up picking your way thru a series of slabby dihedrals placing small gear. Gain a third bolt and the big, left-facing corner (good gear to two inches (5.5) to the RIGHT side of a roof system. Clip the bolt and pull the right side of the roof (7+) to a stance and the last bolt. Head up and right to a V-shaped slot (run out 5.9) to the anchors.

Location 

Big T Canyon. Park 0.6 miles west of the beige siphon tube. Option 1. Walk east up the road (Hwy 34) and forth class up the hill side 200 feet at about the 0.4-0.5 mile mark. Head for a large pine tree at the base of the route. Option two. Park 0.6 miles west of the tube, back down the road to the 0.4 mile mark and hike up a steep gully that intersects with the ridge. Follow that up to the the north end of the upper ridge, traverse down then up to the large, sloping ramp. Rap off of the anchors next to a tree (same as for Hair of the Dog) to the base. Route starts 10 feet right of a huge pine tree under the bolt. Climb is on the upper left end of the slabs 60 yards left of Double O and 10 yards left of Hair of the Dog on a north-west facing wall. Descent- raps off of Double O Slab or traverse down approach gully to road.

Protection 

5 bolts and gear 0.3 to 2 inches. Two bolt anchor at top shared with Hair of the Dog.