Climbing for Dummies 

FA:  Al Simons New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 85 feet Views: 219 page views Submitted By: allen simons on Sep 6, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Climbing for Dummies is a crash course in old chimmney technique to slab climbing to verticle jug hauling. Start around the corner 20 feet left of Chicken head hop. Chimmney up 15 feet (5.6) to the grassy ledge and walk a few feet up to the base of the slab. Start under the first bolt and slab up (8+) past 3 bolts to a balancy stance under bolt # 4. Clip it and climb verticle up past 5 bolts. A bit of a jug haul with a couple of 5.8 moves, the last one just above the last bolt 8 feet from the two bolt anchor. A fun pumpy little bugger with three distinct types of climbing.

Location 

About midway up the east side of Bobcat Ridge, 20 feet left or downhill and around the corner from Chicken Head Hop.

Protection 

8 bolts, no other gear to a two bolt anchor. A standard rope gets you to within 5 feet of the ground on the rappel. 60 meter rope is better to use.