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Mary's Bust
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5.11

   

FA: R.M. Wright, ShiAnn Zimmerman
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 195 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 17, 2006


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Description 

OOT begins on easy terrain that gets harder and harder the higher you climb. P1 ticks in at 5.10 with a thin crux at 70 feet. It ends at double chains and is a good pitch by itself. P1 has lots of good places to rest. P2 is at least solid at 5.11 with two distinct cruxes and continuous burly moves for 40 feet getting off the belay. A tough mantle out of a shallow pod nets a good stance to launch the finish - which is much thinner and more devious than it looks. Noto Bene: P1 has two places where one can exit to the left. The lower of these puts you directly over the hard route behind the flake and avoids the crux of P1. The upper of these gains a belay stance for the route running up the deep water groove. The two pitches of OOT are largely vectorial, straight up. However, one can link P1 to the groove pitch for a very different style of climbing.


Location 

50 feet right of the flake growing out of the trail. Locate chains at 90 feet. The route is right of MJ and looks very easy in the start.


Protection 

Fifteen draws will get P2, 12 for P1. If you are climbing through P1 to the chains, a sling just below the crux will prevent rope drag. A 60 meter rope is required for descent from both pitches. The top of P2 is a tad less than 200 feet off the deck. On the ground, pull the rope to the left to avoid the tree.