Short but Sweet 

FA:  Pat Ackerson-Al Simons New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 35 feet Views: 254 page views Submitted By: allen simons on May 27, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Perfect crack climbing on Short But Sweet.

Description 

A nice 30-35 foot sustained hand and finger crack with two good rests. Too bad it is so short. Solid rock, vertical to start then down to 85 degrees or so. Easier if one stays in the crack and avoids the nubbins on the surrounding face.

Location 

Park 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube in the paved pullout on the south side of US Highway 34 (same as for the Upper Slabs). This crack is at the top of the upper slabs above Double O Slab and Slipstream Dihedral on the very right side of the ridge top. The ground (rock) slopes steeply down to the left in front of the ridge line and can be tricky to negotiate in and of itself (spots of 5.0 and class 4, best avoided if wet). Walk off the top of this route. Multiple rappels to the road, same as for Double O and Slipstream.

Protection 

This short crack sucks up any kind of camming gear. I sewed it up with 5 pieces (wasting time and forearm strength) and Pat led it in good style with two. Gear 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches.