Friendship Seven 

The infamous James Johnson, Nile Fedewa and Don Karle put the bolts on the left side and cleaned up some seriously rotten rock about four years ago. The route was never named. Maybe a 5.9

The route on the right, Friendship Seven, was two less bolts when we used to climb it with a very scarry start from the ground up to the first bolt which was at least 15-20 feet up. And then you had a serious 30+ foot runout to the top with the crux in between. But since, somebody has added at least two bolts to it which seriously lowered the pucker rating. 5.11a, hmm.. I dunno! The first time I went up it I was told it was a 9+ not knowing that it was just a ploy to send me up it first. It is for sure 10+ with the extra bolts as reasurance. Very fun route.

That's right, Niles....I just couldn't remember his name. When I put up Friendship Seven, I put it up with friends and used seven bolts, thus the name. I looked at it recently, and it still appears to have only seven bolts, with the crux right below the last bolt. It is runout 5.6 to the top (15 feet from there). I did hear that a bolt pulled during a fall once, and Niles replaced it. As far as the rating, I was reluctant to rate it 5.11a, since I (at the time) had only climbed a bit of 5.11. I had some friends climb the route and they gave me everything from 10a to 11a. Should have been conservative and chosen 10 b or c. I do think that is closer to the routes grade. At any rate, I find it a very fun climb with good protection, hope everyone else does too. Allen

Allen, this route is one of the best in the canyon, and the rating of 5.11a is on the money. it is far [too] sequential and pumpy to have a rating less than 5.11. Patrick Ackerson.

Thanks Pat. I'm just always reluctant to rate things at a grade that seem to be at the limit of my grade of climbing, or in this case, my previous grade of climbing now that I am old and decrepid. Suffice it to say that I too think it a great climb, very fun, sequential at the top, and pumpy. al

I have climbed the left side twice now. Ever time it sends me into the crap factor because of the Vertice and slight lean back. I have been dying to know the name of this route. A 5.9 sport? I would like someone to verify if possible. Either way, it is definitely something to do. I am woking on hitting the right side and actually taking the Friendship 7.

Thanks for the great routes, people.

Todd

Ya know, Kyle Kingry has told me the name of the left route at least a dozen times, and I can't remember for the life of me what it is. If you email him from this site, maybe he can tell you. I think it is 5.9, it may feel harder due to the steepness. Friendship Seven has the same steep issue but has moves to "figure out."

Aaron, I e-mailed Kyle, and he is going to get the name to me. Allen

The name of the route to the left of F7 has escaped me. I have it written down somewhere, and I am trying to figure out who even told me the name??
As for the grade of 5.9, I personally don't think so. The start is a bit runout, some of the better holds are a bit loose and the sustained nature and length of this climb sure make it feel like 5.10
It is a great route that takes power and elegance.

Friendship Seven- Very fun climb, mentally and physically. I would call it a 5.11, but what do I know? -Dillon

It's been time coming on this for me, always leading Left of Seven. I finally jumped over to lead my nemesis. Tricky moves, one hard clip. Sketchy run out on the top about 25 feet, but it's 9+ from there. This climb has to be one of the best climbs in BTC, along with Friday the 14th, and Slipstreme Dihedral. Yes.

Primo route fell a couple of times and felt the crux was killer as in killer bees! I think this needs to be climbed by someone that's solid on twelves to officially rate it. I believe 11c/d but am questionable? Solid climb and very dynamic! 2 thumbs up!