Park at a paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube in the narrows of Big Thompson Canyon, (next to the Borg). Up and east set a series of steep slabs. Slipstream is located on the right side of the highest slab 600 feet above the highway. Two small pine branches growing out of the Double O Slab 30 feet from the base landmark this slab.
APPROACH: Class 4 up 30 feet of loose ledges 200 feet east of the pullout, hike to the broken rock walls directly under the upper slab. Climb 3 or 4 wandering pitches through rotten Class 4 and Easy Class 5 rock. Protection is limited. The way is marked by bolt anchors, slings on rocks/trees, and horns of rock used for the rappel off. Conceivably, one could climb the first two lower slabs and hike to the top of the upper slab and rap to the start or climb any of the several new lines going in directly below the climb.
Slipstream: 5.9+ - Pitch 1. (60 feet) Climb the left-facing dihedral right of Double O Crack past four bolts to an exciting but well protected move left of a small roof to the chains. Crux at the roof.
Pitch 2. (80 feet) - Climb up past two more bolts and exit the dihedral 40 feet up. Stay right of upper Double O, placing gear as needed through 5.8 rock to a small ledge with a two bolt belay.
Rappel: Two one rope rappels to the base of the climb off of bolts/chains. Four or Five one rope rappels off of trees, rock, and bolts get you to the bottom. One final rappel to the road off of a two bolt anchor in the gully 50 feet above the road. (Gully directly above the screen drain next to the road).
Protection
PITCH ONE: 4 bolts with no other available protection to a 2 chain anchor/belay station 60 feet off the deck. PITCH TWO: 2 bolts and cams 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches to a two bolt anchor/belay station 130 feet off the deck.
By kyle kingrey From: Loveland Jul 13, 2007 rating: 5.9+
This is probably the best route in BTC. After the last bolt you can either stay to the right or break slightly left for a bit more excitement. Good gear when the bolts disappear. This climb is easliy done as one pitch.
Super thin moves, good feet loved it, after the two last bolts gear up to two inch. The approach need some work, I use Allen Simmons guidebook, not much info. Going back up to free the Double O Crack. Three 1/2 stars.
Good lead Scotty! Must say I'd agree with Kyle probably best route in BTC alongside Friday the 14th! Super thin but good pro and stellar moves! What's the easiest approach to this slab? Had trouble finding any solid trail? 3 stars and a must do for any aspiring climber! Good work, Allen!
Thanks Cale. In my opinion, the best approach, one that minimizes kicking rocks to the highway is to park at the borg (0.6) miles. Walk back east to the 0.4 mile mark (right at the first curve in the canyon) and hike up the gully there. When the gully runs out, catch the ridge line to the right and take it to the very upper area where it intersects with the upper climbing wall. Traverse across right (class 4) and gain the lower end of the huge ramp. Climb up the ramp and you can locate the anchors to Slipstream, Double O, and another set of anchors for La Facada Norte. You can hike off the ramp to the south to a pinnacle 50 feet over and catch the anchors for area 51. From these points, you can rap to the base of the climbs....steep hike. The only other approach is to climb up the canyon at 0.5 miles and be way careful not to knock of rocks. Find Other World and Hard Luck and Bad Times and climb up, then fourth class up the the base of Double O. Have fun. Allen
I made the ascent with travis yesterday and do believe those anchor slings could use replacement. they are about two or three years old now. I will replace them next time im there for sure. (with a chain and a rap ring.)
RSS Feed
Slideshow
