Practice Rock 

Hey, I was just wondering why has no one bolted the practice slab so that you could lead it? I personally have had to wonder for some time now. I have top-roped all over the face many times and have also noticed that the three most obvious lines that could be bolted are those that are highlighted in the picture. I think that all three of these would be great lines and would personally love to see them bolted because of their exceptional quality. I think it would be hard to argue that they would not be some of the better climbs in the canyon. Just my thoughts wondered what other were thinking?

These have been top rope climbs for a long time. I have not bolted them because it seems more of a "practice wall" and bolting them has seemed out of place to me. al

Hey Allen could you expound on what you mean by out of place. I'm not sure I understand what you mean?
Also, does anyone else have any opinions?

Before I offer my opinion let me say this. I will never tell someone what they should or should not bolt. That being said, To me, "out of place" means that this wall has been scaled numerous times going back long before I ever set foot in the canyon back in the early 90s. It has always been a toprope wall or led on scarce gear. The central crack and left side of the wall will take gear if you work at it and have most probably been led by Disney, Kor, Wilford, or one of the many other climbers to first climb in the area. Bolting there, to me, seems a disservice to the first ascensionist. The right side is harder and may not have ever had a first non-toprope ascent, but it has been TR'd hundreds of times, and bolting an established TR climb seems out of place. For those reasons, I prefer to keep it a "practice rock" or toprope area. As an example, there is another rock in the canyon that I bolted extensively back in '94-'96 that has some fine routes on it. I was younger and full of myself and did not even think someone may have climbed it before me. I found out later that a good portion of it had, in fact, been climbed and toproped by an earlier generation. For me, when I learned of this from the original first ascensionist, I felt bad, although the first ascensionist never make me feel that way and seemed to think the bolts were ok. Like I said however. I won't tell anyone what to bolt.
Cheers.

Hey, Allen, I have been thinking a lot about what you meant by, "out of place." It finally dawned on me, and what you had to say about the disservice to the first climbers is totally true, I couldn't agree more and hadn't really thought about that aspect before. I also wanted to say thank you for your story about your own bolting, it really had a lot to say to me personally. I have realized more and more that bolting and establishing new climbs is not something to be taken lightly. All aspects need to be very very well thought out, probably, dare I say it, discussed with others in the climbing community before any bolting is even considered. It's definitely not something that you should do to get your name out there. The name that you throw out will undoubtably take on the qulity of your climbs. Thanks a ton for your comments and insight!


Travis

No Problemo, man. I have established several new climbs in the last year, have you had a chance to climb any of them? Al

Beware of the ENORMOUS RATTLE SNAKE on the trail up to the anchors. He was in a little cave under one of stones that form the steps of the trail. One would naturally step inches in front of it. It was just after the the trail turns from loose gravel to blocky steps.