This climb is the bolted route just to the left of Diagonal. Start up the face, clipping 3 bolts and eventually crossing the 5.9 crack (stoppers), until you hit this [commiting] roof) 5.11b/5.11c. Clip 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay. The second pitch, which is not within my range, is sustained 5.11hard and 5.12mod. 2 rappels seem feasible.
Protection
Just a few quick draws and some small nuts for the first pitch.
The bulge on pitch 1 is definitely commiting although protection can be placed from a somewhat strenuous position in the [horizontal] crack before the mantle move. It's in the #0.75 Camalot range.
Pitch two - count on friction to get you to the second bolt, then move right (think small). Now move back left and catch a welcome three-fingertip hold that allows your feet some added friction. This is the crux. Pull it and finish with "Battle Forever More"; bring Metolius one to four, along with shoulder length slings for the this section. Expect some high stepping onto matchstick holds.
Combat Rock
RSS Feed
