100 ft. beyond the bridge on the right hand side of the road, this route leads up and to the right a bit. It goes up a [slopey] dish, that looks like a skateboard half pipe. The climbing is fairly sustained most of the way up. The crux is going from the third to the fourth bolt. All moves are well protected. This is worth the stop on your way up US Highway 34.
Hi, Allen Simons again. The real name of this route is Santa's Little Helpers, my first route put up in 1995. I think it is a fun stem prob., too. Sorry my name isn't on the list, the web site won't let me put it up for 24 hours. For more info, e-mail me at rockallen@msn.com.
Hey Allen, Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think since that L-shaped, side pull piece broke off by third bolt, this climb became significantly harder than before. I agree that before it was around 5.10a/b range, but now I do think it's more like a 5.11a/b. The reason I bring this up is Travis and I have been climbing in this area for some time now and recently I noticed that missing piece. I hoped on it and found that section to be the new crux, because of its reachy stem action on a small crimper to a finger pocket.
Well, I did not know that. I climbed it last spring, and it seemed 10-ish. I'll have to jump back on it and check it out. As I remember, the 3rd bolt was the crux for me. I don't recall a side pull, but perhaps I did a different variation. I'll check it out first good weather. Allen
Tymothe, I went up and top-roped this the other day to check out the rating thing. I couldn't remember using a side pull where you describe but did see one the other day. If it was bigger before, I don't remember. I never used it to climb the route. I climb it with lots of stemming and perhaps never used the hold in question. I still felt it to be hard 5.10. There are two ways to climb this route however. Stemming up the scoop and taking the rounded blunt section with edges 2-3 feet right of the bolts. I supposed there is a third way using both.
By Aaron J. Shileikis From: Dysfunctional, CO Mar 27, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Great climbing that ends all too soon. One of the better routes I've done in the Big T.
Aaron, did you stem it or use the edges and locks 2-3 feet right of the bolts?
By Aaron J. Shileikis From: Dysfunctional, CO Mar 30, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Allen - I don't remember exactly, but I think I started w/ the slanted sidepulls on the right side of the bolt line near the first bolt, and then I stemmed out to the left and then kind of pulled straight up the bolt line via stemming/smearing and small edges. I do not remember any 'cracks' to do a 'lock' in, so I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. I could see how one could do this route in a variety of ways, all of which are fun, and probably near the same level of difficulty. I am guessing it's somewhere between 5.9+ and 5.10b. Whatever it is, it's very nice climbing. It's too bad the rock isn't taller. It would be stellar if it were longer.
Beige Tube Area / The Narrows
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