No Mystery Here is the long, blunt arete on the formation just uphill from the Steeple, with a small pine tree right at the base. A long cruise, this route is a lot of fun. It's a 135 feet to the ground, so drag a second rope to rap.
Protection
13 bolts plus anchors. 2 ropes if you rappel from its anchor.
The longest single pitch route that I have ever done. I was pretty much spent after this one. The last few bolts are run out. But you are rewarded with a fantastic view of the Mummy Range off to the west in RMNP. This route is also an excellent example of Monastery style climbing.
No Mystery Here is on the Magical Mystery Tower. If you don't want to carry two ropes up to rap off this, and have a 60m rope, you can scramble to the other side (NW) of the Tower and rap off the anchors at the top of a couple of 5.14s. Tommy C. has the FA on them and it is the only way I'll ever get to inspect that level of route, up close! :-) Since the routes are so stiff there's rarely any traffic on that side. You lose all contact with the rock after the first 5 feet of the rappel until you touch down on the other side of the gully. You can then go down about 25 yards and walk through back to the outer gates.
The gully that you land in if you go off the back is the Vestibule and you land at the base of Tabula Rasa. The passage back to the Gates is called Inner Sanctum.
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado May 23, 2003
This is a great, moderate route that gets your attention near its end. A bit spicy at the last two bolts even at (7), as its angle and bolt spacing increase, the pitch length kicks in (135'), and consequence to the epidermis should you peel, ran thru my mind. The sharp, abrasive nature of this rock added an element of caution to my climbing, as I like my skin just the way it is. Great friction though, and no need to worry about slipping.
With a 60 meter rope, you can rap SW off the route's anchors (b/t MM Tower and The Steeple), continue past a ledge, and get far enough down to chimney (easily) the rest of the way to the base.
This route was pretty cool - you can be creative with the rappel - the ledge to the left of the climb will get you and your second down and then chimney down the other side. plenty of good stuff to gawk at back there... a guy named rick really helped me out by stick clipping the first bolt... All the first bolts at the Monastary seem to be REALLY high up... If you are a gutless wonder like myself - I highly recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and good spotter!
There are some new routes in the area since the RMNP/Estes Park book. I think we wound up on a route to the right, which got thin. Not very good quality rock. Definitely alpine. I can think of many other more enjoyable 5.7 sport routes.
I really didn't like this climb. Maybe it was the weather (ominous) or my condition (tired) but it felt like this was one move, repeated 100 times. Sustained, but the same move (reach for a pebble, position feet, stand up. Repeat).
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 25, 2005
The easiest descent with a 60m rope: rap diagonally right 35' to the anchor atop La Maudite/Stone Smoked Porter. From here, rap 95' to the ground.
Outer Gates
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