Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Outer Gates
Show routes:
Select route...
Abbot Arete 
Altered Boy 
CCD 
Cloister Frock 
Crucifix 
Crystal Staircase 
Fin Du Monde 
Going to the Chapel 
Inner Peace 
Jesus on a Stick 
La Maudite 
Monastic Groove 
Moving to Montana 
Mystery Route 
No Mystery Here 
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace 
Simplexity 
Southern Hospitality 
Steeple, The 
Stone Smoked Porter 
Table Wine 
Trois Pistoles 
Unknown [Outer Gates] 

Abbot Arete 

5.7

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 125 feet
Views: 773 page views

Submitted By: Dave Loring on Jun 2, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Steve Marr working up Abbot's Arete


Description 

This route is right of Wes Bound on the arete just up hill from Table Wine and the entrance to the Inner Sanctum. Typical Outer Gates slab/face climbing on crystals, with a steeper 2-3 bolt crux. Escape left to the anchors of Wes Bound after 9 bolts and bring up your second to rap with one rope, or continue to the routes own anchors and a 2-rope rappel.


Protection 

11 bolts plus anchors.



Add Photo Photos of Abbot Arete
Christa Cline on Abbot Arete.  Photo by Jason Shatek.

Christa Cline on Abbot Arete. Photo by Jason Shat...

Someone following Abbot Arete. Photo taken from the Monastic Groove ledge.

Someone following Abbot Arete. Photo taken from th...

Allen loving it on this challenging 5.7.

Allen loving it on this challenging 5.7.

Sean Mac on Abbot Arete. www.visionsofcontrast.com

Sean Mac on Abbot Arete. www.visionsofcontrast.com

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07.

Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...


Add Comment Comments on Abbot Arete
Show which comments
By Steve Marr
From: North Pole/Fairbanks, AK
Jun 5, 2002

This route is every bit as good as No Mystery Here, if not better. The bolts were thoughtfully placed (but not always comfortably placed). The crux starts around the 6th or 7th bolt where the route steepens. There is a very positive right-facing flake with bomber holds. Once over the flake there are a couple options like Dave pointed out. The first is to clip into Wes Bound's anchors and then rap. The second is to continue straight up past two more bolts to Abbot's anchors. There is a long run out between the 9th and 10th bolts with pretty straight forward climbing. You could probably clip the right bolt on the Wes Bound anchor with a long sling if you wanted. Stellar route with fantastic views.

By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Jun 28, 2003

You can actually rap from this route with two one rope rappels by going to the rap station for Southern Hospitality. Fun route that was definitely stiffer climbing than the two 5.7s down the hill. Enjoy this excellent, long climb.

By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 4, 2004

You can also rap from the Abbot Arete anchors with a single 60 meter rope if you go down to the large flake that Southern Hospitality begins from. If you choose to use the Wes Bound anchors, you can actually be lowered on belay if you descend into the Inner Sanctum along Wes Bound. A 60 meter rope will reach from the base of Abbott Arete to the Wes Bound anchors and down to the base of Wes Bound with plenty to spare.

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

A really fun 5.7.