Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace 

On saturday I was belaying my partner up this fine route when - ho! - the first bolt came spinning down my rope along with my quickdraw. The washer and nut went skipping down the hillside. Luckily I came prepared with wrench and we were able to replace and tighten the bolt.

We also found anchors that could use some tightening around the area.

It's a long cold winter up there and it takes its toll on the metal - use caution, don't ever trust just one bolt and have fun...

I agree with the route comments here. An excellent example of Monastery style climbing. Probably the most vertical of all the routes in this area, which makes it a bit more challenging than other routes of the same grade. But the satisfaction at the top is worth it. Look for and trust your feet, you'll need them. Have fun!!

Fun route! Very typical Monastery climbing. Nice shady belay while you can climb in the sun. Getting to the first bolt might be crux, after that relax and enjoy the pebble pinching party.

I'd agree that the 5.7 move seemed to be getting to the first bolt. I also found myself crimping down on the pebbles and crystals more than actually pinching. (Lotta Balls in Red Rocks? THAT seemed to be a pinchy sequence of moves.) Although "Pandora's Pebble Crimping Party Palace" doesn't have quite the same alliteration appeal....

I'll have to agree the crux is right off the ground. I believe I went right off the ground and crossed over left to the little ledge to clip the bolt. This is a good quick climb if you're just trying to beat the weather and get in another climb :)

A lovely climb. I have to agree with Tom - compared to other climbs in the area, this is a pretty stiff 5.7. It's harder than Monastic Groove (5.8), for instance. The first clip is okay, but is a little dicey - I don't know if it's the crux, but it's a hard first clip compared to the rest of the route.