A fun and interesting route just right of "The Black Tube" which goes up the obvious "rib" near the center of the crag. I did this route before the new guidebook came out, so I had no idea what its rating was before climbing it. It's got three 5.10 cruxes (.10a, .10b and .10c) on the rib proper (bottom half of the route) and a final 5.10c crux near the top, at the bulge just above the ledge. Lots of pegmatite crystal crimping and tiny nubbins for your feet. A double rope rappel from a bolted anchor or a scramble to the top will get you back on solid ground.
After the short crack/flake section following the 7th bolt, step back right just before the 8th bolt. The bolt is not immediately obvious because you're facing left while in the crack. There are a couple of tricky moves past the 8th bolt, in keeping with the rest of the route.
Great climbing throughout. As good as The Black Tube, which Gillett says is the best route on the crag.
This was a very fun route and very challenging for me as climber who is not terribly 5.10 experienced. The wind was very strong and blew me off twice, use a right foot around the arete to hold on to the wall near the first 5.10c crux.
Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
RSS Feed
