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Estes Park Valley


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Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 2, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Latitude: 40.3782  Longitude: -105.5180 
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Sundance and the Pear. Lumpy Ridge.
Photo by Blitz...



Introduction 

Estes Park Valley has a good variety of granitic, gneiss, and schist crags scattered along the hillsides and in the forests surrounding this small town of approximately 7,500 people located at 7,550 ft above sea level. The crags in this area lies primarily in the 7,000-11,000 ft altitudes. While much of the climbing here is done during the warmer months, it is possible to climb year round with good weather and warm clothing.

Rock climbing here includes boulder problems in the forest, scattered sport climbs to 14a, traditional lines up to 900 ft long, and the occasional aid route. In general, traditional climbing has predominated in this area; however, more recently, some areas like the Monastery with principally bolted lines have been developed. Plenty of history in climbing has taken place in the area, so check before drilling. Of course, chipping is never tolerated. The greatest wealth of climbing here lies in the moderate-range, traditional lines of Lumpy Ridge. While competition for parking is frequent on weekends (we'll see if it changes with the new parking lot) at Lumpy, there are plenty of crags for solitude like The Crags on Twin Sisters. Access to some rock formations is unavailable at this time, so, if you are exploring, check first.

Note, this is Colorado's number two destination (3 million visitors a year) for tourism, and much of that is concentrated during the Memorial Day to Labor Day period. So, if you visit then, expect to share.


Getting There 

Estes Park is the gateway community to the eastern side of Rocky Mountain National Park. This small town can be reached from Denver via US 36 through Boulder & Lyons with an hour plus drive. You can access it from further N of Denver (like Ft. Collins) via US 34. You can access it from the S via the winding CO 7 (Peak to Peak Hwy) from communities like Nederland & Allenspark. Finally, you can access it from the W on US 34 (aka Trail Ridge Rd) during summer months. Once in town, the hillside N of town is the classic Lumpy Ridge. Other various crags can be accessed via smaller roads described in the specific areas.

Map of Estes Park


Resources 

Eating options are quite varied in this popular town. Summer months may make it challenging to eat expediently. Probably at the top of the list is, on the main drag (Elkhorn aka US 36), Ed's Cantina (climber-owned), decorated with climbing photos, serving Tex-Mex food, burgers, and good margaritas. For great pizza, consider House Special or Pesto (?take out) at Sweet Basilico's now near the big slide (it moved). For the economically-minded, consider Safeway's deli or the Mountaineer's (540 S Hwy 7) or The Wapiti Bar & Grill (for smaller appetites). Nepal's Cafe (near the Subway on the River Walk off Elkhorn) is great especially if they have the buffet for the Subcontinent palate. Notchtop (in the Safeway shopping center 457 E Wonderview) has good sandwiches & bakery goods with wireless access for the breakfast & lunch. Smoking Dave's BBQ and Taphouse has tasty BBQ sandwiches & even tasty Kona Pipeline Porter. Estes Park Brewery (off US 36 W of town) has big, cheap burritos M-F for lunch (try to get some salsa). The Bald Pate Inn provides an English style meal along CO Hwy 7 near Lily Lake during summer months. Chicago's Best offers sandwiches, calzones, and pizza. Dunraven's (original on Spur 66 or downtown on Elkhorn) has classic Italian. Mary's Lake Lodge & the Stanley Hotel may appeal to the well-financed palate.

For drinks, Ed's Cantina for margaritas on the rocks.... Estes Park Brewery has free samples of beer. There is wine tasting (small fee) of Colorado vineyards at the Snowy Peaks Winery 970.586.2099 on US 36 across from the Colorado Mountain School for apres climbing or early rainouts.

Sleeping accomodations are varied in this area. In the heavily visited summer months, options can be tight, so plan ahead. For the campers, there are campgrounds such as the KOA (E of town, near Lake Estes) on US 34; a crowded campground along US 36 (W of town, just E of the Beaver Meadows entrance into RMNP); popular camgrounds in RMNP like Aspen Glen (30+ sites, Fall River Rd entrance), Moraine Park (largest with 250+ sites), Glacier Gorge (110+ sites, summer only), Long's Area (tents only) off Hwy 7 S of town; campgrounds in the National Forests to the E & S of town; Mary's Lake Campground (SW of town on Mary's Lake Rd). Other commercial campgrounds include Yogi Bear's Jellystone (E on US 36), Manor RV Park (815 Riverside Dr), National Park Resort (3501 Fall River Rd, Paradise RV & Travel Park (1836 Hwy 66), Elk Meadow Lodge & RV (1665 Hwy 66). Free camping is challenging to find and not recommended. Colorado Mountain School on US 36 W of town can provide economical accomodations of the hostel-like variety. Many motels, hotels, and cabins lie scattered in town, but prices are generally more than you might expect. The Stanley Hotel can provide historically-rich lodging for the well-heeled.


Gear 

Estes Park Mountain Shop (US 34 near the dam on Lake Estes) has discount prices and decent selection and a small, indoor gym. Trail Ridge Outfitter's is another climbing shop located downtown on Elkhorn near Ed's Cantina with a small gym as well.


Weather 

You can try checking NOAA.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Estes Park Valley:
Kor's Flake   5.7     Trad, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
White Whale   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : Left Book
Hiatus   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : Left Book
Pear Buttress   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II   The Book : J-Crack Slab Area
Backflip   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Wolf's Tooth   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
Edge of Time   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin
J-Crack   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   The Book : J-Crack Slab Area
Mainliner   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
Loose Ends   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches   The Book : J-Crack Slab Area
Romulan Territory   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Climb of the Ancient Mariner   5.10a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II   Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend
Turnkorner   5.10a     Trad, 7 pitches, Grade III   Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
Cheap Date   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch   The Book : The Pages Wall Area
Fat City Crack   5.10c     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   The Book : The Pages Wall Area
Tabula Rasa   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch   The Monastery : The Vestibule
Idiot Wind   5.10c     Trad, 7 pitches, 1050 feet   Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
Between The Sheets   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches   Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Psychatomic   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch   The Monastery : The Vestibule
Browse More Classics in Estes Park Valley

Featured Route For Estes Park Valley
Christa at the crux of the first pitch.

Diagonal 5.9  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Combat Rock
This route is the most popular on Combat and is the easiest to find. When you reach the base via the trail, you will most likely be right at Diagonal or just below it. It is the left-facing corner with the crack going up diagonally. You will need TWO ROPES to rappel from either belay station. This route can be done in either two or three pitches.Pitch 1: Follow the left leaning crack through some great finger jams and sketchy foot moves. Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Estes Park Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Summer sunset.

Summer sunset.

Estes Park lawnmower.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Estes Park lawnmower.
Photo by Blitzo.


Beware of Frank, when visiting the area!

Beware of Frank, when visiting the area!

And beware of Nollie, too...she's a killer!

And beware of Nollie, too...she's a killer!

One of many.

One of many.

Bouldering on Churchill Rock. Actually falling. Lots of great problems on this rock.

Bouldering on Churchill Rock. Actually falling. Lo...

Bouldering at Mary's Lake.

Bouldering at Mary's Lake.

BH on the southeast arete of the Trojan Horse Boulder, Allens Park area, Even Flow Blocks/Deer Ridge aka Pierson Park Blocks.

BH on the southeast arete of the Trojan Horse Boul...

Interesting flakes.

Interesting flakes.


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