This splendid 2-pitch route starts from the belay atop EOA's second pitch. It climbs the beautiful, exposed face left of the last two pitches of EOA, paralleling Higher Calling, to the top.
Start: Climb the first two pitches of EOA (.10a, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay.
Pitch 1: .11b, 11 bolts, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge.
Pitch 2: .10d, 9 bolts, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for EOA about 10' back.
The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of EOA are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.
Protection
12 to 18 draws depending on how pitches are combined, with 2-bolt anchors after each pitch.
Good route, but probably a bit harder than 11a. The crux was made especially challenging by the somewhat slippery nature of the rock making it hard to just pull real hard to get through. Well bolted.
This is an excellent rock climb! The first pitches feel sustained for 5.10-, but maybe we just weren't warmed up yet. The slab pitch is fantastic, made even more interesting by the fact that there is no line of white chalk marks to follow. Beautiful rock with great moves and incredible position. I wish the rest of the climb was as good, but thankfully it is good enough. I thought the final pitch was a lot of fun too, a real mind opener. Great work on bolting this climb.
Very fun climb. Good sampling of what you will get on other routes at Ra. I would say 5.11c as an on-sight grade. Again and as with other routes here, no move may be harder than 5.11a, but these are pretty relentless stretches of rock. I fell off of some holds big enough to set a stool on and churn butter! Great movement, awesome position and really fun climbing!
L.E.O. XO
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 17, 2007 rating: 5.11c
I want out with Jason Haas today and did this thing. GREAT climb from top to bottom. I wish we'd gooten to the sloper crux prior to the sun hitting it though. I can imagine that the P3 crux is easier in cool crisp weather, but dang-nabbit, I think it is hard 11 in the sun if it is warm out. Bloody desperate!
Ra
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