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Wind Tower - SW Face
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Calypso D irect Start T 
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Breezy T 
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Calypso Direct T 
Day 444 T 
Erickson's Wide Crack T 
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 
Governor's Climb, The T 
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I Did It My Way T,TR 
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My Own Way T,TR 
No, Do it My Way T 
Raisin Bran T 
Rastaman Roof T 
Recon T 
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Roofed Out T 
Salvation T 
Stagger T 
Tagger T 
Tigger T 
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Variety T 
West Overhang T 
Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

Calypso 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Layton Kor, Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, 1961.
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 38,246
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Classic route. Start just left of the huge boulder. Move up and right, then cruise up the obvious crack until you get to the roof. Move right around the roof and carefully protect this for you and your second, or up and left (calypso-direct/105760206'>Calypso Direct - 5.8). Belay from two bolts at the nice ledge.

You can rappel down 100' or continue up the crack just left of the belay station to another ledge. There used to be 3 old pins above the P1 anchor. These have apparently fallen out over the years. Exit from the top carefully via the sloping ledge running up and left.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Calypso Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce Sposi at the top of the first pitch on a winter day! <br />Photo Olaf Mitchell.
Bruce Sposi at the top of the first pitch on a win...
Watch your snacks at the base.
Watch your snacks at the base.
"Hey Bruce, I'm bored let's go climb something in Eldo."
"Hey Bruce, I'm bored let's go climb something in ...
Unknown climber on the first pitch of Calypso.
Unknown climber on the first pitch of Calypso.
Devyn on her first multi-pitch.
Devyn on her first multi-pitch.
The first pitch of the route.
The first pitch of the route.
Memorial Day, unknown climber on Calypso. <br /> <br /> 2013 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.
Memorial Day, unknown climber on Calypso.

2013 ...
Just another day at the Wind Tower circus.
Just another day at the Wind Tower circus.
Kathy, on Calypso, note sling on flake, <br />This flake fell off last yr. 2005, this was climbed thousands of times, so you never know, luckily no one was on the route, think I was the 1st to do the route after it fell off.
Kathy, on Calypso, note sling on flake,
This flake...
William leading HIS first ascent.
William leading HIS first ascent.
Rebecca on the first pitch of Calypso.
Rebecca on the first pitch of Calypso.
Kasi cleaning up the first pitch of Calypso.
Kasi cleaning up the first pitch of Calypso.
Ken starting the traverse of p1.
Ken starting the traverse of p1.
Ken at the top of the 1st pitch.
Ken at the top of the 1st pitch.
Roger Wilkerson just at the giant flake.
Roger Wilkerson just at the giant flake.
Kevin on the belay ledge.
Kevin on the belay ledge.
Sally seconding Calypso. Beautiful climber on a beautiful day!
Sally seconding Calypso. Beautiful climber on a be...
Bug Addison on the second pitch of Calypso.  Note the last piece clipped is a piton.
Bug Addison on the second pitch of Calypso. Note ...
Dan Long on the final moves of Calypso.
Dan Long on the final moves of Calypso.
Bret leading the 2nd pitch. Picture taken from Bastille Crack.
Bret leading the 2nd pitch. Picture taken from Bas...
Following Randy up Calypso.
Following Randy up Calypso.
Well-fed vermin at the base.
Well-fed vermin at the base.
Mike Robinson, P1. <br /> <br />Photo: Andy Knowles.
Mike Robinson, P1.

Photo: Andy Knowles.
Looking up the whole climb.
Looking up the whole climb.
On the first pitch approaching the crux. Photo by Walter Leake.
On the first pitch approaching the crux. Photo by ...
Shot of the first pitch after the flake fell off. My first time climbing the pitch. Fantastic line! Gene Francis on belay, Andy Kobelinski taking pictures on the belay ledge, myself climbing/cleaning the pitch. Photographer: MB Bissell-Francis
Shot of the first pitch after the flake fell off. ...
Comments on Calypso Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2014
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 1, 2001

There is an alternate rap anchor to the right of Reggae (when facing it) two new bolts. This will get you to a ledge that lets you traverse to the rap anchors on the first pitch of Calypso, and is probably the safest descent. The walkoff to the left is sketchy with loose rock, and continuing to the summit is annoying (although it is a cool summit) this rap station is a nice thing to know about, you can use it to descend from routes on the South Face too.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001

Calypso has one of the highest accident rates of any climb in Eldo, with at least 2 fatalities in recent years. The rock is polished, the climbing a bit insecure, and the protection, although adequate, is awkward to place. Not a very good introductory 5.6 or 5.7 lead. The large detached flake near the top of the first pitch will be pulled off someday, just hope you're not around when it does. Keep an eye out for falling rocks in this area.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

Myke and I did the 8 variation today (12/15) in the snow--quite fun actually. I wanted to mention that there are three starts to this climb. 1: 5.5: the crack on the far right, then traverse left to the dihedral. 2. 5.8: straight up the middle to the dihedral. 3. 5.6: next to the boulder, then traverse left to the dihedral. Also, if you do the roof variation, you can rap 75 from the Tagger anchors.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

I just read these comments again and realized I made a mistake. For the first variation I meant to say the crack on the far "left" then traverse "right" to gain the crack.

By Andrew Klein
Dec 23, 2001

Mace, pepper spray, or tranquilizer gun may be needed (from May-November) to ward of herds of pesky climbers queued up at the base.

By Greg Kneser
Feb 16, 2002

This route is a great climb aside from the one questionable large flake about 3/4 of the way up. One other note: you can make it to the ground from the top of the first pitch if you have a 60meter rope, though it will take some rope stretch to get all the way down or you'll have to swing over a little to the left to get to higher rocks. This route can be done with a fairly standard rack, nothing too big necessary.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2002

The loose flake on the 1st pitch is an accident waiting to happen. I hung out waiting for a family watching me to leave before I yarded up on the thing. It's ready to go. Warn your belayer ahead of time before you start up the pitch and make sure there isn't anyone below you when you yard on the thing. On a side note. This pitch goes without the flake at 5.8. You just kind of layback and step over it. Someone with a crow bar could remove the thing pretty easily. Do us all a favor. Maybe at night on rappel. Anyway, just a warning to those who climb the route.

By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Apr 26, 2002

With a 60m rope and well thought out pro placements one can start left of the boulder, move right into the crack, continue up to the roof, pull the roof to the left, and continue to the second belay ledge, although you'll end up setting up a hanging belay just short of the cave/ledge. There are two pins and numerous nut placements for a bomber belay - also the roof below protects well, med cam and/or nut sits well before you commit. This avoids that nasty flake I've been hearing about!

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2002

A more enjoyable finish than the crumbly walk off: swing right onto the face and follow easy climbing up 50 feet, before a somewhat rotten dihedral of more easy climbing. Then you're at the top; enjoy the view!

(I'm not really sure why I'm suggesting that a variation involving rotten rock is enjoyable.... but I think the walk-off is boring and lame, and topping out is always more fun.)

By Kreighton Bieger
May 18, 2002

Did Calypso as one long 60m pitch today with no problems and no hanging belay, and rope to spare. Started left (the easy start), lots of long runners, and didn't place any gear to the left at the first roof/corner. A blue Alien placed near the right side of the roof with a long sling will get you a pretty straight rope line. Skip the bolts, fire right up the second pitch crack and you should arrive at the first big ledge with some rope to spare.

I don't know if I could have made it 10 feet higher to the walk off ledge proper, though. I did a seated belay on the lower ledge with a thread and a #1 Camalot placement.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 23, 2002

I used to think that the flake on the first pitch was going to come tumbling off any second. I would have to admit that it looks like it might, however it's been there for years and the route see's like a jillion ascents a year (it gets pulled on a lot)- Moral of the story it's probably good so please don't pry it off!

By DanMoore
Sep 24, 2002

Just did this today. I'm pretty new to leading, but I have a few words for folks interested in this climb. If you are going to do the walk off, realize that it is pretty exposed. I was happy to be roped up. The protection is a bit thin, but I felt the walk off was very exposed. Conversely, I was interested in rappelling (from the bolts on top of Reggae), but when I got the the ledge on the second pitch, I couldn't find much pro placement. In either case, don't be deceived by the direct nature of the first half of the second pitch. I had quite a bit of rope drag when I wandered around the walkoff looking for a belay.

By Scott Thompson
Oct 2, 2002

Calypso Direct: this variation is fun. it seemed a tad tough to me, the holds are all super-pos, even a tad too sharp (ouch), but getting my feet above the lip was pretty hard, however, this move is very well protected if you can reach high enough from the stance below the roof. once you have your feet above the lip, its hard to find gear above you, and the stance is really weird. if youre leading at your limit, youd definately want a piece, becuase decking onto the slab below the roof would not be pleasant. theres probably a stopper placement, but it would take up a nice finger slot. sure its a few-move wonder, but anyone else feel that its a bit hard? maybe i missed something.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Aug 13, 2003

Did this today. Very pleased with the 1st pitch, get 5.6 climbing with bomber holds and decent pro. Was a bit let down with the second pitch on. I would recomend only doing the 1st. Thats where all the real fun is to be had. The start of the second is good also, with great exposure and huge jugs all the way. Once you top out on the bulge at the start of the second the fun is pretty much done. From there its just the business of getting off the rock with out getting killed.

By shad O'Neel
Jan 12, 2004

Cams in pockets gets you a good second belay, as stated above, and a good nut at your feet. The third pitch adds a lot to the climb. I find it quite enjoyable with not that much loose rock. Stepping out around the corner is a great move with lots of air under your feet. To me, it seems less loose choss than the ledge walk......besides it's always good to finish a climb.....

By Ray Broscovak
May 6, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I really enjoy this route but the one problem i had was that i did the second pitch for the first time just recently. The area on the photo above marked Walk-off is NOT really a walk-off, it is more of crumbley traverse... i was rather mislead. I think that it is best to stay ropped up for this one and finish the third pitch.

By DanMoore
May 7, 2004

Another accident on Calypso. The climber walked away from 80 foot fall: www.dailycamera.com/bdc/county_news/article/0,1713,BDC_2423_>>>

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
May 7, 2004

I am always intrigued by accident reports in a newspaper. I know there are (were) some old pitons at the top of the first pitch of Calypso, but did he not clip the bolted anchors? I wonder what the full story is. Must have been an exciting 2.236 seconds! Good to hear he walked away.

By Ben Couch
May 8, 2004

Gear Alert

Did this route Thursday, May 6, pulled pro and a fixed pin at the top of the secound pitch. I fell to the belay ledge at the top of the first pitch, as I was off belay and sitting on the anchor. Have since heard much advice of climbing past the end of the small dihedral at the end of the second pitch and moving left to straddle a block for the belay of your second. Good advice, I think I will surely take next time. Stellar route though and very enjoyable. Peace.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004

Possibly Eldo's best .6 though it has become polished in recent years- be forewarned. Fun, fun, fun. I think it best not to think of there being a 3rd pitch to the top of Wind Tower above the 2nd because this formation layer in the tower is rotten. Careful traversing on the walk-off ledge through Wind Ridge is preferable.

By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 14, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route, loved the traverse at the top of the 1st pitch.

By James Durden
Oct 6, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I took the 5.6 start just under and to the left of the Boulder. I placed a #4 cam into the crack in the first 10 feet to protect this start. It is a traditional Eldo cruxy start. Balancy and fun it did take me quite some time to unlock the footwork. The pro is great and plentiful over the large majority of the pitch. The pro is pretty thin to the right of the traverse. The holds are vertical grippers that are a bit polished..that goes for the feet as well. I was able to place two nuts in the horizontal crack in the roof and then once on the right side of the roof I found a very attractive little area that wouldn't accept jack! I tried 4-5 pieces. I looked above it after abandoning that little crack. I was happy to find two piton scars that would accept a green and a yellow alien. The protection wasn't bomber but it was good. Then I began the climb up - a little smooth but positive overall. You'll need a #3 cam for the top 10 feet of the route. Hand jam with right hand...bring your feet up step by step - balancing then reach for the top of the crack with your left hand - nice REALLY nice finger placement at the very top of the crack on the first pitch. I felt like having a cigarette and taking a nap after getting that finger there. :)

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 18, 2004

Lots of fun. A suggestion for those who wish to top-out on wind tower and avoid some of the loose rock potential (though there is still some) after the second pitch. We traversed the "walk off ledge" (exposed)over to the top of second pitch of wind ridge and then did the third pitch of wind ridge. Made for a nice outing. Also if you are a confident down climber the traditional rappel north of the summit is a reasonable downclimb.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2004

Just a word of caution about anchors at the second ledge from experience. Even though the anchors pickings look slim and the ledge appears rather wide when you first arrive at the second belay ledge don't be tempted to skimp on your anchor! There are two round holes which you can make use of. The upper one took a bomber blue tri-cam. Up to the right of that is a crack that I managed to fiddle an ok medium hex into. Below the lower hole a blue H.B cam fit quite well in a flaring crack. I only say all this because if I hadn't taken the time to build a solid anchor my partner and I would probably be playing harp duets in the blue yonder right now instead of me writing this note. My second struggled getting off the start of the second pitch and eventually fell. He would surely have pulled me off if I hadn't been solidly anchored. Have you kissed your cordellete today?

By Kevin Craig
Mar 4, 2005

FINALLY led the first pitch today after it spanked me very early in my leading career. What a HOOT! Great route! Granted, I've got a lot more experience now, but I'm still no super-rock-jock, and I found the climbing secure and the gear good! Did the 5.5 start from the left - No gear and a bit balancy, but quite secure. There's a bomber nut in an old pin scar (odd though that sounds) on your left right before the traverse starts. Used a yellow alien part way across, and take 2 x #2 Camalots for the last 20 or so feet to the belay ledge (textbook placements on the L). Vast majority of the route is easily done on passive gear (nuts, hexes, tri-cams). Whoo hoo!

By nick moeckel
May 27, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I spent quite a while being a little freaked out about this climb and its reputation, finally hopped on it the other day. Fun and easy climbing up to a decent stance below the roof, from which you can lean and place a stopper before starting the traverse. A couple of fairly nice alien placements after the traverse pretty much eliminate the risk of dihedral-smackage if a fall were to occur. I was pleasently surprised at the quality of the pro, and *really* liked the underclingy moves on the traverse.

By Mike Abraham
Jun 6, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This news may already be in the climbingboulder post queue, so sorry in advance if this winds up being a redundant post....

The flake is gone. Yesterday morning my partner and I arrived at the start to see some big blocks and debris on the ground. Sure enough, the flake had fallen (or was pulled off). It had been there when we did the route over Memorial Day weekend.

There was grit on both the ground and the route, possibly indicating that the flake had fallen very recently, since there were heavy rains only the day before, which I assume would have washed the grit away had the flake fallen earlier in the week.

Anybody have more information or know when and how it occurred?

By Alex Andrews
Jun 7, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just did it the route after the flake come off from above the overhang, it made the route a little harder 5.7, I think it made it a little better, it just needs some rain to wash away the dirt from under the flake, one of my favorite climbs of its grade.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 7, 2005

With the flake gone, the section between the roof traverse and the red ledge near the anchor is pretty sustained dihedral climbing (with slippery dirt on slopey edges where the flake was). It makes the climb a bit more aesthetic but pumpier. The Kevin Currigan photo below shows a climber just below the monster flake that is no more. Now it's a smaller wobbler at the base..-s

By Mike Abraham
Jun 7, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree that the route is a little harder now. 5.7, I guess. I think there's good edges for your feet, which'll be more obvious once the grit's gone, and there's good hands along the dihedral itself. So, the hard stretch just seems a bit longer now.

By Rob
Jun 13, 2005

I climbed Calypso with a friend on June 6th and couldn't get over how recently the flake must've fallen. Crisp fractures on the ground, lotta sand on the holds, vertical scars on the face. It struck me that the route didn't change that much. Maybe .5 grade harder (call it a 6+) for the slightly more sustained last quarter of the pitch. It may be an improvement since the rest was maybe out of character with the route? I'll bet new climbers to the area won't have much problem with calling it "sustained 5.6." It sure must've been something to see.

By Friso Schlottau
Jun 17, 2005

I too was surprised when I found the flake missing on P1. However, I think that the quality of the route has actually gone up. That flake was always a bit of a weird spot to be avoided, making an otherwise great line a bit contrived...

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 19, 2005

Laughing at my comments above from about2-3 years ago..."that flake is bomber, it's never coming off!!"

HaHa!! On really wet spring and...PING!!

Anyway climbed the route again yesterday, I found it to be easier since the flake is gone. There is no longer any loose stuff or sand/dirt there making the area slippery. And now there is a HUGE foot hold where the flake used to be. Now instead of trying to avoid the flake you can just step up and pull right thru....the route is still 5.6 but the climbing thru that section is now less awkward.

ENJOY!!

josh

By Kevin Craig
Jun 26, 2005

Led this again sans flake on 6/24. I'd agree both that the route is now more aesthetic, but also more sustained. Now that the dirt/sand has washed off, I don't think it's enough harder to warrant a 5.7 but a former "solid" rest is now missing. Makes the crux longer and placing gear for the last half a bit pumpier especially the 2nd gold Camalot I mention above - now a #3 (blue) is probably the pro of choice for that placement (difficult to reach as high). But overall the "new" climbing is of similar difficulty to the rest of the crux. I'd say 5.6+ or simply sustained 5.6.

By JPVallone
Jun 30, 2005

Just did this last Wednsday sans flake for the first time. Yes this route is way better with out the flake. For most people this makes the route harder, and more sustained for climbers of the grade. For me, the route is easier. I have climbed this route close to 30 times or so. I don't really know, mostly guided. I have never touched that flake nor have I ever put a piece of gear behind it. I have always thought it to be suspect having climbed in Eldo enough to see many things come down. I probabblly made the climbing in that section contrived 5.9 by literally not touching that flake.

Eldo is relatively clean, But take this to heart, there is still many loose blocks all over the canyon, some smaller and not as significant as the Calypso block. They are on many of the popular classics and covered in Chalk. This block is a good example for anyone who has climbed the route and thought nothing of the block. Many people over the years, mostly inexperienced have put gear under that flake and then yarded up on it. You know who you are. I always wondered about the people lined up at the base of that thing like sitting ducks, Not a matter of IF, but When. I for one am glad the block is gone and think the route is far better and safer with out it.

Climb safe and treat all loose or hollow sounding blocks as suspect. Remember to not assume it is good because there is chalk on something. I learned this lesson the hard way having almost been killed on Vertigo. There is more loose rock in this canyon than people think. Heads up out there!

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2005

Led this for the second time about a month ago. Wasn't til I got home I began to think there was something different about the route. I couldn't remember if I'd seen the flake or not. So I came on here to check and sure enough it was gone. I don't remember the climb being much harder the second time though I remember looking down from the first belay thinking I did run it out a bit more than last time. A great route, just glad no one was at the bottom when the thing came off.

By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Mar 25, 2006

Did this for the 1st time today. Classic! I thought the traverse right at the start would be tricky but it's pretty easy. Once you gain the crack, it's great climbing. The roof is a little sustained but you can find a great stopper placement just before you start the exit right. Make sure you use long slings here. Climbing after the roof is good but expect to place mainly small nuts. Placed a #3 Camalot at the top before making the move to the bolts. I forgot and it'll make your head feel better. 2nd pitch is pure fun. Once at the top climb a little higher until you see the "holes" in the rocks on climbers left. I found a nice home for a red Alien, nut and slung a thru hole with a runner. Bomber anchor!

By Jo Holloway
May 30, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I was on this route for the first time May 26, so I have no baseline regarding the route prior to the fallen flake. It climbed like a 5.6 to me. Rockfall happens...

By David M Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fred Vanden Bergh and I did the regular first pitch as a prelude to Reggae. I was on the sharp end -- my first time climbing in Eldo -- and the route seemed a solid 5.6 to me. (I never had a chance to climb it with the now-missing flake so I am not comparing to the prior version.) Aside from the first 10-15 feet being run out, the pro was good.

By Daniel Crescenzo
Jul 16, 2007

Dubious ratings. Calypso felt closer, yet so far from an 8 than Reggae did. Both routes have a sketchy section (groundfall onto jagged pain on Calypso and a nasty winger into a dihedral on Reggae), but honestly, I got worked harder on the "6" than I did on the "8". Well, now marks the day when I give up on the number system.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2007

Second pitch wasn't that fun, though the views from the top are cool.

By Phill T
Jun 6, 2008

Awesome climb! Climbed today and someone had slung a boulder at the top of the 2nd pitch for rappel including a locker. Looked only a few days old. For building an anchor up here, forget the chossy holes that look interesting up above, just at the lip of the climb is a fixed pin (on the left in the dihedral, a bit hard to find), a great tunnel to sling, a few bomber nut placements, and the slung rap boulder (or sling it again yourself if you don't trust it).

Also, in the Falcon guidebook, it indicates two bolts in the crack just above belay 1. They are not there, so don't expect 'em!

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Start is a bit dicey be careful. Good red Alien placement as your first piece...I was chatting with my belayer and unexpectedly fell...lucky I wasn't added to the Calypso accident list.

Seemed about the same as the Bastille Crack to me....or a bit easier. 5.7 - mostly for going through the roof section and up the following corner. The first corner felt 5.5ish. Sustained 5.6? It just sounds strange.

For me this is typical Eldo stupidity...just put a bolt to protect the start and save the many ankles that will be broken on this climb in the future.

By Matthew Benton
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I would say hard 5.6, but that makes it fun. The gear is there. Mind your footwork on the upper half. Pitch 1 linked with Reggae makes for two great pitches of climbing.

By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 13, 2010

The start is definitely spicy. The holds are all there, and it's really not difficult. It also helps that this climb feels like a gym climb all the holds on it are clearly marked with chalk. Once past the start, the gear pretty good, although if this were my first 5.6 lead I would have been terrified.

Paul, I can't believe you fell off the start and didn't get hurt the landing if you fall is rather nasty looking.

If rapping from first pitch anchors, be careful when pulling the rope, I got to solo the start up and down getting the rope unstuck. It got stuck in the crack on top of the large boulder leaning on the face, probably best to try and go to the left when you pull the rope to avoid this.

By Count Chockula
From: Littleton, CO
Oct 4, 2010

I've led the direct start a couple times without incident, but like Paul, I unexpectedly popped off the spicy direct start last year. Messed my right foot up pretty good but didn't break anything. Luckily, I landed squarely on the boulder at the base of the climb and ended up with just a bad heel contusion and some deep arm abrasions. A few inches in either direction and there would have been bones crunching. It happened so fast my belayer was helpless to do anything to break my fall. From now on, I'm going to put packs over the boulder at the base of the climb to reduce any potential impact, or just traverse in from the left to gain the crack.

Also, I think if you're taller, you can easily reach the 'thank God' rail that saves the final move on the slab. But for us shorter folk, we have to make an extra move or two on crimps and really thin feet, and that's where I popped.

By Brown Guy
From: Lafayette, CO
Oct 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nice route. Led the easy 5.6 start and climb easier terrain on face to the right of corner, stepping periodically to the corner to place gear. Pro was adequate. Route felt like sustained 5.6 and no harder. Small but adequate face holds (hands and feet) are available up higher for the one who looks. Circumventing the roof to the right felt like the crux. Next time I will not forget to protect the traverse at the top for the follower. There are good cam placement possibilities on the roof of the ledge that will prevent too large a swing for the follower. Second pitch felt like easy 5.6 right off the bat and then 5.3-5.4ish to the next ledge.

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I've only done the direct start everytime I've climbed Calypso; it's gotta' be easy 5.8 and entirely on footwork. Probably done the route almost as many times as I've done Redguard (14 ascents). Much more enjoyable, however!

By Canon
Jun 30, 2011

Skipped the early runout and belayed from the top of the giant boulder leaning against the wall. Easy to traverse left on giant holds and gain the crack. P1 is easy enough to protect, but moving right underneath the roof, all of those blocks looked ready to drop at any time. I'm actually shocked that the climb is as popular as it is. Did not find anything particularly noteworthy about it, it's awkward and nervous, and there are always a million parties and expert chipmunks hanging around. Almost got hit by someone who dropped a biner from above.

By Michael Slater
From: Denver
Aug 8, 2011

Hit this route yesterday morning for my first ever Eldo and first ever multi-pitch route. The climbing is easy and super fun although as it was my first time being up that high I have to say terrifying at times when I was belaying and getting to look at the beautiful but intimidating view across and below. I'm still debating whether or not I'll ever do multi-pitch climbing again...probably will!

One thing to note, the last pitch has quite a bit of loose rock to the right. The lead climber for the last pitch was reaching for what looked to be a solid hold, it broke away and a mini rock slide occurred with rocks as big as a small car tire fell off. Luckily, the belay point is extremely well protected under a small overhang, and the other climber and I were safe. However, climbers below were exposed, but no one was hit.

By austin luper
From: Fayetteville
Jun 12, 2012

I think this would scare me as a novice..there is a nice runout after the roof, and if you fell, it would be really bad.

By Claire Rose
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2012

Was my 2nd pitch on first time climbing - enjoyable whilst a little challenging. Need lead to protect well.

By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not the easiest 5.6 but a 5.6 nonetheless. Really fun climbing.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 19, 2012

"if you fell, it would be really bad."...

LOL!

Really?

By Rodger Raubach
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The accident rate on this climb is high only because it's probably the most popular "moderate" climb in Eldorado. Not a good beginner lead.

By Eric Thomas
From: Colorado
Apr 22, 2014

Is there really a second and third pitch to this? If you don't go up Reggae (e.g. go up the left side), it's practically a walk up (or rather what a non-sandbagged 5.6 should be).