Dr. Greenthumb 

FA:  New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 400 feet Season:  Spring through fall. Views: 200 page views Submitted By: Jaaron Mankins on Oct 20, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Start of Dr. Greenthumb.

Description 

Pitch One: Find small fixed pin at start clip this, and make awkward move up into corner system. Stay right in handcrack, and then stay left in the dihedral face climbing where necessary to two bolt anchors. 160 ft. 5.8.

Pitch Two: Move right from anchors to airy handcrack start. Climb straight up crack until you move left past two bolts and a tree to the top. Two bolts plus gear to gear anchor. 190 ft. 5.8. Classic Vallecito quartzite.

Location 

Route lies in gully between slabs and steep cliffs in the dark stone. Grovel up to the start, and let the games begin. Walk down from top to climb, or rap High Times Wall and walk over to climb.

Protection 

Double set of cams, with nuts and lots of draws for second pitch...do not hose yourself with ropedrag on this one - there are no good spots to belay. Hint-backclean lower gear at start of pitch 2. First pitch anchors are two bolts on ledge. Second pitch anchor is trad anchor at top of pitch.