BETA PHOTO: The main cliff on the West side of the canyon.
Description
The west side of Lemon hosts several good climbs. Most the climbing is bolt protected, but bring a light rack, as many routes are mixed. The grades tend to be more moderate than on the East Side. Expect to get morning sun and afternoon shade.
Getting There
From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, go left across a bridge and through the campground following the dirt road to the Transfer Park Trailhead. Hike back through the Transfer Park Campground and down a short trail to a knotted fixed rope that leads to the base of the cliff.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Side:
The Transfer Park management made it clear that they do not want climbers walking through the campsites to access the West Side Walls. The management staff has already encountered hostility from climbers which creates a very poor image of the local climbing community. Please use the trail from the major parking area. If anyone wants better access, please contact the San Juan National Forest to submit requests.
I haven't walked the actual trail yet. It is supposed to be from the large parking area and leads to the top of the West side cliffs. Not very much longer than walking the road. I will try to get more information this weekend.
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.
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