The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon stays shady in the morning and gets afternoon sun.
Getting There
From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.
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